Re: Annealing, How to Article/Video by Ken Light
The numbers that are listed in that article are a wee bit shy of what is commonly listed under the physical properties of 'cartridge brass' (70% copper, 30% zinc), available multiple places on the 'Net (various metal suppliers, engineering references, etc.) I'd be curious where he pulled his numbers from.
The Hornady kit works reasonably well - although you could probably duplicate it with a deep-well socket and extension chucked in a hand drill. It' not automated, but it's simple enough to drop a case in the socket, stick it in the flame while spinning (and watching the time), remove it from the flame, tip the case into the 'done' bin, and pick up a new case and drop it in the socket.
The bottle of Tempilaq is considerably lower rated (475°) than the stuff most people use w/ their annealing setups; if you read the directions it's intended to be applied 1/4 below the shoulder, the theory being by the time that point reaches ~475 and melts the paint, the neck will be pretty close to 'done' ;)
One of the tricks from the Brassomatic annealing machine (alternative to the Ken Light machine mentioned above) manual is to get a few different temp ranges of Tempilaq and paint them on a test case... and get a visual feel for how far down the case the heat really travels before it dissipates. With a Winchester (thin) .308 Win case, it drops below 500 about 1/2-5/8" down from the shoulder... well above the poin where I'd even remotely worry about the case web or head.
Last edited by milanuk; 03-14-2009 at 12:48 AM..