The simplest, most accurate scope leveling system ever devised to level your scope as you mount it on your rifle. The magnetic base in the rifle level bridges the bolt raceway, allowing you to position your rifle almost perfectly level. Then level the scope, tighten the rings and the job is done. Works with practically any bolt-action rifle. Set includes two levels.
It may sound complicated but it is undoubtedly more accurate than this gizmo. With my method I'm using precision ground tools (1-2-3 blocks) to support the barrelled action parallel to a reference surface and using the same surface to reference my vertical crosshair again with a precision ground tool (machinist square). If I wanted to get really anal about it I'd use a surface plate as the support surface, but I think this might be overkill. The goal here is to elliminate as many variables as possible and make your initial set up as accurate as possible. The only variable left in my set up is how well I can visually align that vertical crosshair with the edge of the square. The only way I can figure to do it more accurately would be to set it up on an optical comparitor which isn't an uncommon tool in a tool and die shop, but not something I have in my machinist box.
Greetings, using parallel blocks or any other widget to level the rifle is fine. Just be sure the bases are in the same plane and are parallel. The base screws must be on C/L with the action as well. When we drill our 6-48 screws to 8-40's we machine a mandrel that screws into the action which is held in a vise and the bottom of the action is supported/squared to our parallel ( 123 block) We next center the spindle to the receiver mandrel and drill and tap new holes to that centerline.
Using our Perfect Picatinny Rail one machines the front and rear base into PERFECT alignment and then mount the rail ensuring a PERFECT STRESS FREE mounting to that particular action. Ring lapping takes just a few seconds and you've done the customer/yourself and stellar job of mounting yoru scope to the rifle. For more information on our mounting system , we've added the instructions to our web page at hollandguns.com. Feel free to take a look, I'm sure you'll grasp what we'vbe done and understand the importance of our system.
With huntng season upon us, I wish everyone a successful and rewarding time in the field.
P.S. We will have our NEW line of scope levels out in the next 3-4 weeks, 1.00 inch 30 mm and 34 MM Models a s well as our Picatinny rail version. These are AWESOME scope levels and are sure to please. I'll post a few photos as soon as I get them back from anodizing.
Yes, we are completeing our NEW line of scope levels that will compliment the customers rifle. These are beautiful scuplted rings with an off-set, I use a 3/8 bubble level that is easy to see and read, even if you have aging eyes....
I think I've designed the off-set so as to provide a binocular view in the scopes field of view. The shooter never has to pick his head up from the stock to see if the rifle is plumb.
They will come in three sizes; 1.00 inch 30 mm and 34 mm all designed with the same off-set allowing viewing with windage and parallax knobs. All Holland Signature Series scope levels are hard black anodized for maximum durability and outdoor use.
You may want to give some thought to offering them in the GEAR SHOP????
I'll send photos for your review when I get them.
Thanks for the interest, I'm confident you'll appreciate our efforts!
If this thread isn't dead, I've got a question for Mr. Holland.
It makes perfect sense to me (your article) but I've got a couple of questions. Probably stupid ones, but nonetheless.
If after we dial up 10 or 20 moa and shoot again, lets say we're 1/2" off the plumb line to the left. This tells me that we need to rotate the scope clockwise (viewing from the rear) in relation to the rings/rifle. Is this correct??
It seems easy enough to do when we've got an ACD on the rifle or ring half, but what about when the ACD or level is mounted on the scope tube? Seems that we'd now need to remove the level and then rotate the scope clockwise. Then, after doing so, we'd re-mount the level when the crosshairs are parallel with the plumb line and our impact is finally on the line?? Am I correct in this assumption? Seems harder to do and possibly takes more steps when the ACD mounted on the scope tube??