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#50
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I just want to start of with thank you for writting an amazing article i have learned allot; and it made me do some research and now i have some questions if thats OK. Hopefully you can help me out. I want to apologize upfront; English is not my first language so don't mean to offend anybody with my questions.
A statement was made regarding using a Stevens 200. That was my idea two, however someone just told me that the Stevens does not come in the heavy barrel shank. Should i be concerned with that? From what i understand the normal shank is 1.055"x 20tpi and the large shank is 1.120" 20tpi The second this i was wondering about is a long action vs short action; If i would to buy a long action would it be still possible to convert the bolt head to receive something that you would generally find in a sort action? was also wondering about a staggered vs the new straight mags; which one would you recommend and does the Stevens come in that? |
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#51
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The Savage standard shank has been used for some really big cases so not sure why they switched to the larger shank. In fact, I am hearing that the thinner nut on these larger pipes are breaking. The action is the same so not sure how a larger shank could increase strength??????
I use the long action more often then not. You can shoot any cartridge that bolt heads are available in this action (223 to magnum). Of course, trying to feed a 223 out of a 300WM mag is silly but single shot no problem. If you are handy with tools, you might be able to modify the larger mags to feed anything???? The bolt head parts are identical within the same type and generation of rifle. Bolt spacing on the new center feed mags are different from the staggered mags. Measure and ask before buying any aftermarket stock. I am sure the manf of stocks will adapt shortly. I had a center feed det mag Savage and really liked how it fed. I have not tried any center feed fixed mags but assume they are similar. Either the staggered or center feed should work just fine for their respective cartridges. The center feed will work better with sharp shouldered cases though. Good luck with your project. Savageshooters.com might offer more info on the shank thing. Jerry |
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#52
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wade , indeed they do, the action with the appropriate bolt face, will handle those rounds, they make a dedicated , single shot target action also , with a standard and large bolt face. I just bought the standard to use to build a rifle.
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#53
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Savage 110 rebuild
Have just purchased a savage 110 before the accutriger came out. Have purchased a Bell and Carlson Duramaxx for the rig. Talked with owner of Sharp Shooter Supply and looked at the products that he sell. I am ordering the trigger and barrel from him and was wondering what you thought about the Douglas XX barrels that they sell. How hard is to set the headspace when you change barrels like this. Any more suggestions.
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#54
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If you have any concerns about headspacing a Savage, get help from a gunsmith. The charge will likely be $25 and take all of 10mins. There are numerous articles on the internet and on Savageshooters.com which explain the process.
Essentially, you screw the barrel into the action, while a GO guage is chambered, until it touches the headspace GO guage (can't turn in anymore) and tighten the nut snug. Insert the no go guage and the bolt should not close all the way. Putting in the GO guage and it closes easily all the way - or just a hint of resistance just before full battery. Tighten the nug well and repeat the guage test. If all is well, you are done. I go a bit further by using my sized cases as the guage. This ensures that I have matched headspace dimensions to my sizing dies. NOT A GOOD PRACTISE IF YOU EVER PLAN ON USING FACTORY AMMO - USE PROPER COMMERICAL GUAGES FOR THIS. I turn the barrel in until it touches the case and snug up the nut. I chamber the case again and I want to feel the bolt make contact just as it goes into full battery. I want zero headspace for my target rifles. You just turn the barrel in and out in small increments until you get the headspace you want. NEVER USE A ZERO HEADSPACE CHAMBER FOR A WORKING OR HUNTING RIFLE. THIS CAN CAUSE JAMS IN THE FIELD. It is a very simple process but also just as easy to go wrong. Nice thing, if you are at the range and ammo doesn't chamber as you had hoped, just go back to the bench and turn the barrel a schnick 'OUT' - lengthen headspace a few thou. Jerry |
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#55
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Very good article. I have a question about the Miculek muzzle brake. Can it be opened up for a 300 Winchester Mag and be rethreded to 3/4 x 28. I have a Savage with a fluted bull barrel that is 0.850 at the muzzle. My gunsmith says it should be threded 3/4 x 28 for a brake. Have you ever installed a Miculek on a bull barrel? My Savage shoots great. I am hiting a 12 inch disk at 500 yards with ease now and would like to reach out farther. I am having trouble spoting for myself. I had hoped a muzzle brek would help. The Miculek brake would be the least expensive if it will work.
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#56
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It can be opened up but the rear diameter would still be smaller then your barrel. Wouldn't look smooth but will function just fine.
I don't think there is enough material to make a 3/4" diameter thread. I think the 1/2" thread is sufficient but your gunsmith likely knows better. A 5/8" thread should fit and likely as big as you can go. Don't have the brake in front of me so going by memory on sizing. You can make a similar brake by just drilling two 1/2" to 3/4" holes in some round stock. Bore a 8mm hole down the middle and fit as desired. Jerry |
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