Long Range Rifle On A Budget, by Jerry Teo

[Mysticplayer]

For LR practise, I strongly recommend you look at the 223 and 75gr Amax. Ballistics are similar to the 308, WAAAAY less recoil and cost, more shots before barrel overheat.

I own a Stevens in 223 and it shoots 1/2 MOA at 200yds. That is after bedding and a trigger swap (orig trigger usually doesn't like going under 3lbs). What more can you ask for considering the price?

Makes a great walkabout rifle too. It now wears a heavy Pac Nor fast twist for some LR fun.

If you are going to be more static shooting, consider the Savage 12FV. The heavy barrel/higher overal weight will be a closer fit to a future hunting rig. A bit more velocity and more shots before things over heat. Big bonus, the Accutrigger can easily be tuned to 1.5lbs so you save the cost of a trigger group for the Stevens.

I use the Stevens most often because I am changing almost every part so see no value in the more expensive Savage. If a Savage fits your needs, it is more economical and they will all shoot sub MOA with handloads.

As for trigger groups, I use both the Sharp Shooters which goes down under 1lbs, and the Rifle Basix 2 which can be tweaked to several ounce (6 to 10ozs). Right now there is nothing that can reliably go under 4ozs. Hopefully, a Jewell or similar can be created. I hear that Sharp Shooters has been working on some stuff but nothing in production yet.

As for bedding, 6mmBR has a great article with pics on bedding. I like to use a epoxy steel product. Devcon makes some great stuff. I use stuff made by/packaged by LePages which is more Cdn. All of this stuff should cure rock hard. Some are using Titanium powdered stuff but I think that is overkill. JB Weld has been used by some too.

Big one is degreasing before doing any work on these plastic stocks. I use aerosol brake cleaner and spray liberally. Then gouge up the surface ALOT. Small holes drilled at oblique angles will help hold the bedding in place.

From there, use good release agent on the action/barrel. Put in the 'goop'. Assemble and tighten up the screws to firm but not tight. The goal is not to squeeze out all that bedding and to keep the action nice and level. Keep in mind that if you don't like the job, it can be ground out with a Dremel and started over.

I focus on bedding completely around that recoil lug. The angles are such that it will not lock into place. By bedding all sides, it keeps the action in place and from rolling. You may need to put a dam in the front of the stock so the bedding will not flow into the foreend. You may need to build up in multiple steps. It is worth the extra effort to bed that recoil lug properly.

Bedding under the action screw area - infront of the trigger group to the rear of the mag, from the front mag opening to the recoil lug up the sides of the stock. I don't usually bother with bedding around the mag opening but you can. Also, I like to put bedding under the rear tang so the action is supported full length. Some prefer not to - six/half dozen.

When the bedding is properly done, the barreled action will fall into the stock and bottom out with a nice clunk. The action can not be moved in any direction even with very strong tugging. It should feel like one piece WITHOUT the action screws.

Most important, the action cannot roll in the stock.

The action screws will go from loose to full tight in about 1/2 rotation. There is no mushy feeling. I go hand tight, no torque wrench required. If you need to use that much force, your bedding is off and you are likely bending your action into your stock. With properly done bedding, action screws will not loosen with use.

The barrel channel can be opened up simply by wrapping a dowel with some 60 or 80grit sandpaper and sanding away. 1/8" gap is not too big. The forends have lots of flex and you must ensure this cannot hit your barrel when firing.

You can epoxy in arrow shafts or lumber/angle iron on the outside to stiffen up. I like to build up the forend to 3" wide to ride my front rest. I use plywood and lumber. Doesn't need to be anything special. Will make the forend equal/more rigid then the best BR stocks.

Lots of guys have had success painting these stocks. Krylon makes a camo series that looks great and sticks well. Same thing - proper degreasing then a light scuff with 120 to 180 grit. Most any paint that will stick to plastic will work. Keeping the paint from chipping off is another matter.

Haven't found anything that is chip proof. Catalysted car clear coats would be ideal but expensive and toxic to use. I have had success with rocker panel clear paint. Found at prof paint stores. Fairly expensive but does stand up to quite a lot of use. Unfortunately, does not lay smooth so fine if you like a bit of texture.

Otherwise, just be prepared to repaint every so often. Never tried the heat cured paint so can't comment on how well they work.

Good luck with your build.

Jerry

[Slopeshunter]

Jerry, thanks very much for the feedback. Very much appreciated!!

[mossler]

Thanks for the article Jerry. I happened on this one indirectly while searching more information about Ted Galliard, and that bumped me onto you 6.5 Mystic story. Then some more Google.

Timing is impeccable, as I'm just going through the mental exercise before buying a varmint/coyote rifle and started to lean toward the Stevens 200 .223 due to it's price and future "upgradability". I intend to make this rifle my introduction to reloading and 200 yard practice gun.

I had originally planned to switch to a Pac Nor barrel at some later date, but sourcing parts in Canada seems to have become expensive due to paperwork.

As you mention Pac-Nor barrel, any hints for a fellow Canuck about how we can buy reasonably priced barrels north of the 49th ?

Thanks.

(Edited to indicate the caliber)

[Mysticplayer]

Send me an email at mysticplayer@hotmail.com

Jerry

[AJ Peacock]

Jerry, You just about have me (a dyed in the wool Rem 700 fanatic) convinced to try a Savage rifle. I just received my 338AM from Kirby (A5 stock) and was thinking about ordering an A5 identical to my 338AM inletted for the Savage. I'd probably get it in the heavy barrel 26" in 300WSM and use it as a practice platform, since the barrel is easily changed, I could burn it out then upgrade to a 338WSM from there as my practice platform. Thoughts?

My 338AM has a Jewel trigger at 1lb, I understand Jewel doesn't currently support that trigger. For this build, what would you recommend?

Thoughts on the 300wsm / 338wsm as practice platforms? (also would be a backup long range gun, as it would be setup the same as my 338AM).

Thanks in advance,
AJ

[TAWS]

Jerry as I am new to the site what is the Mystic series of calibers you discussed. I assume they are a wildcat based on a magnum case? Could you elaborate on the 6.5s and 7's.

[Mysticplayer]

AJ, I choose my practise rounds to mimic the LR ballistics as much as possible but in a smaller package. The key is matching the wind drift as elevation is easily accomodated.

Because you are shooting a wildcat at the top of the food chain, it is not easy to duplicate the windage as the AM is head and shoulders over most smaller cases/cals. The only option is to shoot something at closer range to match the AM at longer.

Personally, I don't want a big recoiling rifle when I practise. I also want a cartridge that doesn't cost too much or overheat my barrels or burn them out too fast.

The 6BR/improved, 260R/improved are my favorites as they are wonderfully accurate and easy on the shoulder/cheque book. A fast twist 223 would also work well but then you will have to 1/2 your distance which might make it easier to find ranges to shoot on.

Do some ballistics table number crunching and see what combo does what where.

I try an avoid a muzzle braked rifle as large volumes of shooting can be very tiring. However, I would suggest you make the rifle very heavy to simulate the softer/slower recoil of a braked cannon. That is why I wouldn't recommend a magnum.

If you are using a Savage, why not have a barrel in a 'small' cartridge for practise and another in a boomer for a back up rifle?

Just try and mimic the shooting experience as much as possible.

TAWS, like all wildcats, it is the inventors version of a better mousetrap.

The 6.5 Mystic came about as way to duplicate the 6.5-284 ballistics in a much smaller case. The end result is my version of the 260AI but I use the 308 case. I can prep the brass for a match fit in my chamber.

The performance has been excellent with the ability to get 2900/3000fps with 139gr Lapuas. I have used it with excellent affect in F class shooting. You can view the whole project as Gun of the Week #75 on 6mmBR.com

The 7 Mystic came about as I love the Lee collet dies and wanted a light rifle 1000m BR/Plinking/moderate range hunting rifle. This is my version of the 280AI with the shoulder location identical to the 7RM so I could use the collet die which I already had.

Performance is very similar to the RSAUM which this case duplicates in case volume. I can push 162gr Amax to 2950fps and 180gr Bergers to 2850fps in my 24" Shilen. Nice and accurate with lots of thumping power if desired.

Jerry