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Bedding A Rifle By Pat Sheehy

 
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  #1  
Old 05-17-2010, 02:26 PM
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Bedding A Rifle By Pat Sheehy

Quote:
I have to start out by saying that I am not a professional and I donít have the time or funds to exhaust every possible option to find the best one. Ask every person that has ever attempted a bedding job what the best materials and procedures are and every one will give a different answer. Iíve used this procedure on many rifles and have achieved great results and have yet to glue a rifle to a stock. This article is meant to be presented as information to a community of like minded individuals and is by no means the end-all do-all of techniques.
Now that thatís out of the way, letís have some fun!
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This is a thread for discussion of the article, Bedding A Rifle, By Pat Sheehy. Here you can ask questions or make comments about the article.
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:40 AM
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Re: Bedding A Rifle By Pat Sheehy

I have two rifles bedded by a long deceased friend from the USAF MArksmanship Unit, Lackland AFB, TX. One is a Rem 700 HB VArmint Rifle in .223, the other a Mauser 98 30.06 in a Bishop Stock. His work (and the units) differ from yours in that the recoil lug area was not taped and it was even opened up a bit to fill with epoxy to strengthen the stock by adding more area to absorp recoil. I have done the rest of my bolt action rifles the same way. The material he preferred to use was Dev-Con or JB Weld. With the intent being to prevent any action flex and enhance stability the taped recoil lug which leaves empty space puzzles me. Could you please clarify this for me, there is always more to learn and I'd appreciate your experitise. Both the rifles he did for me were late 70s/1980 era and still shoot sub-MOA groups with their favorite loads. Respectfully, GHI
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Old 05-21-2010, 02:27 AM
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Re: Bedding A Rifle By Pat Sheehy

I've read numerous times that the only portion of the recoil lug that should be in firm contact with the glass bedding is the rear face. The sides, bottom, and front face of the recoil lug should have clearance after the tape is removed. Particularly the bottom of the recoil lug. With the greater length of steel to the bottom edge of the recoil lug, as the recoil lug heats up it will expand more so the the barrel and could result in the bottom of the recoil lug inpacting the glass bedding and lifting the barrel off the glass bedded barrel channel. The longer the length of a piece of steel, the greater the elongation under the heat of expansion. And the recoil lug is longer that the width of the barrel in the chamber area, and even the action.

Oh yeah... nice photos and description of the glass bedding process. I think I understood it all. Thanks for sharing your process with us.

Last edited by phorwath; 05-22-2010 at 02:41 AM.
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:49 PM
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Re: Bedding A Rifle By Pat Sheehy

I appreciate the insight and information. Probably one reason I've never experienced that problem is that around here (SE USA) opportunities to shoot large numbers of rounds at prairie dogs and such don't exist. Load developement, deer/crow/and other targets of opportunity haven't stressed my rifles to heat that much. I will research the issue more for my own edification. Thank you for your reply.
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Old 05-26-2010, 11:00 AM
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Re: Bedding A Rifle By Pat Sheehy

Thanks for the kind words all! As I said this is just the method I've been using that seems to work for me. I've noticed a lot of questions on the forums about bedding rifles so I just thought I'd get the party started!

If anyone out there has any questions or advice regarding my process or any others please feel free to share.

Thanks again!

-PJS
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Old 06-29-2010, 10:41 PM
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Re: Bedding A Rifle By Pat Sheehy

Nice detailed article. I might try this pretty soon. I've done a barrel block before, but never a full action.

One thing though. This isn't exactly "glass" bedding the action. You only used epoxy. Glass bedding would include fiberglass mixed in. I believe you can find "microballoons" at a Hobby Lobby or something. Definitely at a hobby shop. Make sure to mix the epoxy and hardener first, then add the microballoons. Otherwise the epoxy may not get fully mixed. I had this problem with fiberglass resin not too long ago on a different type of project. The resin took days to cure.

Now whether trully glass bedding it will make it that much better, I don't know. Probably not noticeably. But in theory it would be better.

Gene
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Old 07-01-2010, 08:51 PM
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Re: Bedding A Rifle By Pat Sheehy

I've never bedded my own rifle but, am inclined to try it one day. With each article I read I learn a little more. Good read, enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing.
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