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Tubb extractor

 
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  #8  
Old 08-07-2007, 10:30 AM
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Best way to do it is to use the bolt fixture from Brownells, a quality machine vice with true and sqaure surfaces and at least a good heavy duty drill press. I use my light mill/heavy drill press for this work. I have NEVER broken a drill bit drilling the 0.450 hole for the spring and plunger.

One thing to keep in mind, make sure the drill is centered in the machined cut for the extractor. By that I mean if you look at the slot from the top the drill needs to be centered from side to side so that when it hits the radiused bottom of the slot, it will not walk one way or the other.

A huge tip, get some solid carbide drill bits. They stay sharper much longer and last much longer as well. I believe I use the #37 on this hole as well as that is what is called for for the hole size which I think is 0.120". I do so many of these I don't even look at the instructions anymore.

Another benefit of the carbide drill bit is that you can just run that sucker down in one or two passes to the entire 0.450" deep. If you back out every 50 to 100 thou you will whaller out that hole larger then it would be if you had taken only two or a single pass to drill the hole. I pour the cutting oil to the drill bit when doing this in a single pass and the carbide drills have no problem doing it in one pass.

They cut the bolt steel like its warm butter, no comparision to a high speed steep or even cobalt drill bit. Spend a bit more and order in some solid carbides, they will be well worth your money. Also get some solid carbide end mills if you do not already have them. Makes the job much faster and easier as well.

Kirby Allen(50)
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  #9  
Old 08-07-2007, 09:03 PM
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Kirby; my brother (JECustom) bought the fixture from Brownells and I did use it. Money well spent! I have a #40 carbide drill, but have been afraid to use it because of its brittleness. I will use it now. Just couldn't decide. I routinely use #29 and #31 carbide drills and thank goodness, haven't broken one yet.

Thanks for jumping in, Tom
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  #10  
Old 08-08-2007, 06:02 AM
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Extractor

Specweldtom, I did think you were talking about the hole at the back of the slot, which allows the pivot lug recess. I've broken more than one bit when "punching through" to the ID of the bolt. Since I started using the method I PM'd you about I haven't broken a one.
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  #11  
Old 08-08-2007, 02:29 PM
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Eddie, for that hole I use a 4 flute center cutting end mill (runs smoother than a 2 flute in my mill) and plunge down .145" from the floor at the back
of the slot. Works great, don't have to break my setup, and just barely reaches the firing pin channel, so I don't have to punch through at all. very controllable. (I cut the middle of the slot first with the same 3/16" mill and set over ~.027" on each side and climb mill both sides to get a .240" wide slot). I don't particularly like climb milling, but it makes a very smooth surface for the sides of the extractor to work against.

I am sure glad that I don't have to make a living doing this stuff, I'd starve to death; but I listen to the professionals who are making their livings at it.

Thanks for taking the time to follow up, and thanks for the P/M.

Tom
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  #12  
Old 08-08-2007, 04:03 PM
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Tom , a little tip on running a climbing cut , if possible use a 4 flute carbide mill and run it at a higher rpm taking a little lighter cuts and use plenty of cutting fluid , realy a thin oil flush is the way to go but few people have the luxury , your right about it leaving a superior finish , I try to make all my final cuts with the mill climbing cuts so that the finish is better. For cutting fluid I like Moly-Dee diluted a good bit so its thin enough to run through the flushing system at higher volume.

if you can get some Carbide cutters that are TiCN coated , you can run they about 200% faster than HSS and they stay sharp for a long time but they are pricey
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  #13  
Old 08-08-2007, 10:37 PM
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James; thanks for the info. You're right about the flush, would like to set up a continuous flush, but am limited to brushing it on and blowing it off for now. I have been using the "black magic" pipe threading oil for everything. Have been looking for something different, hopefully better, particularly on stainless. This stuff smokes and stinks and makes a real mess. Do you think the Moly D would work good brushed on?
I'm slowly accumulating some carbide tools, mostly milling cutters. I have a 3/16" two flute carbide end mill that would cut the slot and could dig the hole too, but I haven't found a 4 flute center cutting carbide end mill yet.

Overbore, I got us way off the original subject, but this has been a good thread, and answered part of your question: the Sako extractor can be made to reliably eject clear of the action.

Thanks, Tom
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  #14  
Old 08-09-2007, 10:22 AM
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The Moly-Dee is the best cutting oil I have used so far and it can be brished on just as anyt other oil , it is not gonna smell good but I haven't found one that does. I started using the oil on the recomendation from Black Star barrels when I got my first barrel from them they are made from 17-4 SS that is alot harder and stronger than the typical 416 that most barrels are made from.

Carbide is great stuff if you treat it right if you get a little froggy with the feed rate they can cause alot of damage when they break. They are also alotmore expensive especialy when you start getting the coated tool , regular Tin coating it great and a pretty big step over the uncoated and not nearly as expensive as TiCN.
I get 99% of my cutters from MSC
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