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Tubb extractor

 
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  #1  
Old 07-31-2007, 03:35 PM
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Tubb extractor

What North East gunsmiths have done a Tubb Sako extractor successfully, on a 700 Remmy, so that the brass moves out the port and not up only to bounce back down blocking and hitting the next cartridge??? Many thanks, Overbore
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  #2  
Old 08-01-2007, 06:05 AM
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Tubb Sako Extractor

I don't know about a "Tubb Sako" but I've installed many Sako type extractors in Rem bolts. This installation is not always the "cure-all" for the ejection problem you are experiencing. I would be glad to discuss the problem with you either by PM or telephone.
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  #3  
Old 08-01-2007, 09:35 AM
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I am not in the north east by any means but I can tell you I use the Tubbs extractor and have never had a problem with them when fitted properly. I have installed well over 300 of them and every custom Rem 700 I work on gets one installed in the receiver accurizing package.

The key is to use the right extractor for the round you are using. I believe there are 5 different sizes and yes it makes a different on some rounds if you do not use the right size.

If your cases are falling back into the receiver I would say the problem is that the wrong extractor was used of that the extractor needs some minor releaving in a couple areas so that the case does not bind on the extract when the case is ejected.

Properly installed, the case will clear the receiver dramatically even by working the bolt slowly, that is as long as the plunger ejector has not been modified in any way.

Like I said, of the +300 I have installed, I have yet to have one not work well.

That said, I have had several customer complain about the cases not ejecting properly and falling back into the receiver. In every case, the problem was tracked back to the use of a scope with very large diameter turret adjustments which the cases were hitting on.

I have found the worst scopes for this are the ones with larger tactical turret knobs. The Zeiss scopes with their huge overhanging target turrets are the worst I have seen for this problem.

With NF scopes, you will find light brass smears on the windage turret but in lost cases you will not have an ejection problem with this scope or any scope with similiar turrets.

First time I had a customer with this problem I spend an hour trying to figure out what the hell was going wrong. Then finally I pulled the Zeiss scope and the cases flew clear across the work bench every time.

IF you have a scope mounted on the rifle and it has large target turrets, check the bottom of the windage turret to see if there are brass smears. Even if there are not any, you may want to pull the scope and rule out if this is the problem or not.

Again, A properly fitted Tubbs extractor will aggressively clear any case from a Rem 700 as long as a scope turret is not in the way.

Kirby Allen(50)
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  #4  
Old 08-02-2007, 05:27 AM
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Tubb Sako extractor

Kirby, that is precisely the reason that I warned that the extractor may not be the "cure-all" for his problem.
I have to tune the ejection system on nearly every law enforcement CS rifle, that I build, in order to get the cases to clear the large knobs on the tactical scopes.
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  #5  
Old 08-04-2007, 12:07 PM
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I've done a couple of the Sako extractors from Brownells. I don't think they were Tubb's. I did buy the extractors that matched the case heads. No problem with ejection. One rifle had the big target knobs with screw-on covers. As I recall, you have the correct angle when the milled slot just barely nicks the base of the bottom locking lug. The original hairpin extractor is positioned directly in front of the lug and ejects almost horizontally.There is a very strong instinct to rotate the slot away from the lug, but the Sako extractor will already be about 40-45 degrees more vertical than the original extractor. Any more just makes the ejection angle worse.

The worst part of the operation is the drilling of the spring/plunger hole. The Remington bolts are hard and tough, and I worry about snapping a drill off down in the hole. My milling machine has no feel with that small drill.

I did do one M-16 extractor, but it's a slower job than the Sako and the hole for the cross-pin is harder to position. Extraction/ejection was good.

I'm getting used to the new format and I like it. Tom
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  #6  
Old 08-06-2007, 10:40 AM
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Tom,

One trick I use to drill the bolt to remove the old extractor rivit is to clamp the bolt in the fixture for milling the sako extractor and eyeball the bolt so that the original extracto rivit is top dead center. They use a small solid carbid drill bit. I use a #37.

center the drill bit over the rivit and slowly drill. I only go roughly 15 to 20 thou deep. I do not want to drill all the way through the lip of the bolt nose, just want to take off the head of the rivit. The actual center of the rivit is much smaller in diameter.

THen I take a small diameter punch and push the extactor rivit down until the extractor bends or snaps and they it comes right out. Leaving only a very small hole in the bolt nose sidewall.

The rivit material is much softer then the bolt nose so in most cases, if your drill is slightly off center, it will correct itself and since your only drilling 20 thou deep at the most in most cases, the drill bit will not break if it has to run a bit to stay on the rivit.

Kirby Allen(50)
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Home of the Allen Magnum, Allen Xpress and Allen Tactical Wildcats and the Painkiller Muzzle brakes.

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  #7  
Old 08-06-2007, 01:01 PM
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Kirby, the hole that scares me is the .450" deep, blind hole drilled lengthwise in the bolt from the back of the new extractor slot. The one that the new extractor spring and plunger goes in to push forward on the Sako extractor. I figure that if I break a drill off in that hole, I probably won't won't get it back out, and I'll have to pay for a replacement bolt (when and if I can find one). The kits called for a #37 drill, but I used a #40. The #37 is too big. I've heard of a few cases where people said that the Sako extractor would pop out, and wondered if they were using the #37.

Eddie PM'd me and I think that it wasn't clear for him which hole I was talking about , either.

Both of you must have a way of drilling that hole that is not scary. I don't, but would surely like to.

Overbore; don't want to hi-jack your thread, but it makes sense to follow up here. I hope you don't mind.

Thanks to all, Tom
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Last edited by specweldtom; 08-06-2007 at 01:06 PM.
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