scope rings and base modification ??

[camoman80]

I have the standard set of Leopold scope mounts single piece base with the turn and lock front ring and the windage adjustment back ring via 2 set screws . Now I am not saying that this will be a huge price saver but I was thinking about modifying this system a bit where it was all one non-adjustable base and rings My plans are something like this . Set both rings and true to center as much as possible by centering them to the mounting screw holes. I would measure to find center then scribe a line all the way down the base then I would find the center of the saddleof the rings for the scope to set in and then scribe the line to the bottom of the ring I would do this for front and back of the rings to make sure the they both lined up or where both off the same amount ( in theory ) then i would make sure a junker scope would fit in to the rings right and tighten everything down. Now this is where I do not know . Could I weld the rings to the base or what would yall do? I also thought about using Devcon epoxy in the front ring and then drill up from the bottom and on the rear ring and mount it via a screw from underneath and use Devcon as a lock tight. I am open to any suggestions
Thanks
Matt

[KRP]

My first question is...why?(that may be my second question also)

If I was going to do this I would center the internal windage adjustment in the scope, mount it, zero the rifle for windage using the adjustment screws on the base, then lock the rings into place.

Welding would be cheap and easy, epoxy would work too, but a drop of red Lock-tite would pretty much guarantee the need for a torch to move things.

Dednutz also makes some nice, lightweight, affordable, one piece ring/base combos that might put you ahead in the time/labor/hassle department compared to what you are planning.

[camoman80]

I know this is may not seem like it is saving anything ovr the long run but I have every thing and my problem is that these scope mounts have always been problem matic even with the red loct tite the windage screws have atualy dug into th rings and pretty much sheerd into them so i figure why not. I do like you idea of centing the scope and might have to do that.
Matt

[hank white]

CAMOMAN80;
I FEEL YOUR PAIN!
I have a Ruger77 that shot a 1 hole or cloverleaf group, just not the same place 2 days in a row.

I have the Ruger scope mounts on it. They stink!

Sooo, I JB welded them to the receiver after solvent cleaning same, and pulled off the top rings and made a 1" lap out of drill rod and lapped those twisted and canted suckers FLATT! then the Leupold stayed steady when I installed it and gently tapped it with a screwdriver handle while looking thru it at the boresight collimator. Now instead of the 4" movement at 100 yds it stayed within 1"

Now it shoots straight. Beware those cool scope mounts with the neat adjustments, they are NEVER straight and flat. LAP THEM ALL! a 9" piece of 1" drill rod is cheap for what you get out of it. I even use it to clamp the rings pretty straight with each other while the JBWeld sets up.

Uncle Hank sez: 'Just 'cause it's new and pretty don't mean it works good"

Hank White
Anderson, Calif

[ralfus]

A friend had the same ring arrangement on a magnum (I forget what caliber) and the rear ring would come loose under recoil. His base holes were accessible with the rings attached. He Steel Bedded (or your choice) the rings in place and removed the base and drilled and pinned the rear ring in place vertically. It fixed the problem.

[jerrschmitt]

I guess I don't have your problem. I have six Remington 700 rifles in a wide range of calibers and all of them have Leupold mounts and rings and none of them have ever come loose. My 7MM rem mag has had ar least 250 rounds down the tube since I sighted it in and it has not change POI.

I make sure to clean everything good before I put things together. If you have any oil on the rings or scope it will cause probolems.

[txsendero]

I've had very good luck with a Weaver rail, which is about $18.00 (I used a dremel to cut an X on the bottom of the rail and top of the receiver, then epoxied it), and used Warne rings that have the cross piece under the bottom of the rings (other type rings will work as well) Very solid, and not real expensive.