Re: Removing duracoat?
I just finished removing ceracoat from a fluted stainless barrel. I wanted to save the black ceracoat in the flutes and just remove it from the spines, the shank, and and the 2" of barrel in front of the flutes. Then I wanted to dust the barrel off in the blast cabinet to dull the sanded surfaces.
What I found was that spinning the barrel in the lathe at 630 rpm, it took over an hour to remove the ceracoat from those surfaces. I started with 80 grit strips, then went to 240 grit. The ceracoat makes very fine dust that fills the grit. Very slow progress.
Based on how hard it was to sand the ceracoat off, I expected to be able to lightly dust the bright surfaces without harming the ceracoat in the flutes.. FAIL.. Even with the nozzle 6" away from the surface and moving fast, it removed enough of the ceracoat to make the flutes blotchy. Ugly.
Ended up having to blast the whole barrel to make it look uniform. I use 70 grit aluminum oxide media in the cabinet. Makes a nice level, dull satin finish, cuts fairly fast, and doesn't fracture and make dust like sugar sand.
If your barrel already has the tenon cut, mask it and the breech face to keep abrasive from getting inside the bore. On the muzzle end, I stick masking tape flat to the end of the barrel, trim it to the O.D. of the barrel, and then tap it lightly with a rubber mallet to make it stick good. If you blast with the muzzle pointing away from you, the masking tape will stay in place and you won't touch the muzzle face or get grit in the bore. Works particularly well on a barrel that is already crowned.
Bottom line, do whatever you have to to keep grit from getting in a chamber, bore, or crown.
Texas State Rifle Association Life Member
NRA Endowment Life Member
A big fast bullet will beat a little fast bullet every time