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The revolutionary Signature design produces consistent accuracy, tremendous gripping power and stress-free mounting. These steel rings include a pivoting synthetic insert that increases the scope-to-ring mounting surface while protecting the scope finish. Additional Pos-Align Offset Inserts can be purchased (sold separately) to correct any misalignment of receiver holes or rings or even to provide additional windage and elevation adjustment.
CHOOSING RINGS: Ring height is determined by measuring the outside objective (bell) diameter on your scope. If you aren't sure which rings will suit your needs, please refer to the Ring Height Application Chart.
How do you know that the holes are drilled incorrectly? I ask because I can't see the rifle. You say that the rifle is very accurate and that you are able to mount a scope on it. I have a suspicion about what is going on, but am going to wait for more information.
Show it to a dealer with a service department, they will send the rifle back for exchange.
If you do anything they can wash there hands of this matter and you are stuck.
By law they can get away without honering there warantee.
I could not tell with the naked eye that the holes were misaligned. I first detected the misalignment when attempting to boresight the scope while mounting it with Leupold 2pc quick release rings and bases. The scope mounted just fine, but when I went to boresight the scope, the crosshairs were off to the right of center by several grid lines.
I then mounted the scope using standard Leupold rings and bases, which allow for windage adjustment at the rear base. This corrected the problem and my rifle shoots very well in its current configuration. But, I would like to switch to a 20 MOA picatinny rail, which would require me to fix the underlying misalignment problem.
It is just as I suspected. Your problem is not in the holes for the scope bases, but rather in the timing of the barrel.
Contrary to what most might think, rifle barrels are not straight. They all tend to have some runout in them, even the expensive ones. It just so happens that the bend in your barrel is pointed to the right. To exaggerate things to the extreme, think of a banana. You want the end of the banana pointed up in this case so that you get the most elevation and don't lose windage adjustment. Rifle barrels need to be chambered concentric with the bore and crowned concentric with the bore for best accuracy. They need to be timed to avoid the problem you are having. If you are a little confused at this point, don't feel bad. I was too until I barreled my first rifle and saw the muzzle flopping around in the back of the headstock. Basically, the ends of the barrel are the most important. We want it to go in straight and come out straight. The middle of the barrel is just a pipe.
What needs to happen here is that the barrel is removed and the shoulder set back until the barrel lines up at top dead center with the centerline of the receiver. The shoulder will probably need to be set back about .045" (this part can get a little nerve wracking). Unfortunately, all of the lettering on the barrel is not going to be lined up anymore. Your gunsmith will also have to set the chamber back, but that is not a bad thing.
It sounds like you have a good barrel. Once it is timed, you will be a happy camper (other than the lettering).
Thanks for the heads-up on the underlying cause of the mis-alignment. I gotta' tell you, though, I am afraid to have anyone mess with the barrel. It may be a banana, but it is a spooky accurate banana.
I'm not sure exactly what it is that the factory got so right, especially given the possibility of having quite a bit of runout in the barrel, but whatever it is, I'm inclined to leave well enough alone until it's time for a new barrel.