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Recoil lug realy needed??

 
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  #1  
Old 12-18-2007, 03:56 PM
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Recoil lug realy needed??

I'll be strarting to screw some parts together here soon and was wondering if a recoil lug is realy needed on heavy barreled smaller caliber rifles? I'm gonna be building a Remington M-7 action with a heavy varmint barrel 28" long chambered for 6x47. I have some concerns with the small action supporting that big of a barrel in a laminated stock with typical pillers and Devcon bedding. So I was thinking that i would make a V-block that would support the 4" of full shank barrel and front part of the action , the block would be screwed to the front action hole and two other screws in the barrel shank ,their by free floating 24" of barrel and the action from the mag well back.
I ask about the recoil lug because it would be alot easier to make a stronger block without having to inlet it for the recoil lug.
Another option I was considering was just using two realy big pillers , like a 1.250" in from and a .750 in the back then fully bedding the action around them with Devcon steel putty.

Any of you guys ever fool with type of setup or have any ideas about it? am I over worrying about the barrel weight and the action strength??
This is gonna be my first all out target/LR varmint gun and I'd like it to be competitive in some F-class and maybe some informal BR shootes as well as maybe taking a dirt poodel at 1K
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  #2  
Old 12-19-2007, 05:41 AM
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Recoil lug

In most cases, when a barrel block is used, the block serves as the lug. I've never seen a block that clamped the barrel and, extended back over the action. Don't see why it wouldn't work. I have built several small caliber rifles, on the BAT SV actions, that were fitted without lugs. The large tang at the rear of the action served as the lug. These were 17 Ackley Hornets and 20 Javelina rifles.
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Old 12-24-2007, 08:50 PM
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to be honest i don't like what you're going to do, if i'm understanding your description correctly. you're gonna take a piece of steel(v-block) and attach it with screws to the bottom of the barrel and forward part of the receiver.what happens if the alignment of all 3 isn't perfect? to me you will be imparting a huge amount of stress into both the receiver and barrel. again these are my thoughts if i understand your description correctly.

the way i'd do it and it would be the most accurate, would be to glue a bedding block to the full shank part of the barrel right in front of the action.the mod 7 action is not exactly the strongest receiver. then bed the block and maybe the rear tang of the receiver because your block might be rather short.you said a 4" straight in front of the receiver.of course an 8" block would be better and you wouldn't have to bed the rear tang of the receiver.just float the receiver.
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Old 12-24-2007, 09:39 PM
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Making a V-block that attaches to the barrel and the action is not that hard ,I actualy made one already just to have something to look at ,the block even had a step so that the barrel shank and the action had the same amout of conatack pressure despite their being .105" differance in diameter. As for drilling the holes it would not be an issue as long as your mill and vise are both true , you would simply aligne the front action screw with the bottom dead center of the barrel , theoreticaly the front action screw would be dead center of the action and if you index the barrel correctly so that the curve is pointing up rather than to either side the two holes you drill and tape in the barrel shank will be strait in line with the bore.
Darrel Holland does a simillar setup but sets up thae barrel so that the recoil lug yes way up close to the radius of the barrel and it seats up against the block and the lug is held in place by a nut.

Their are probably a dozen ways to skin this cat but I have decide to simply bed the action the conventional way with pillers and bedding under the shank of the barrel. I'll be using a 3/4" piller i the rear and a 1.25" piller in the front. The rear piller will be holding the action in place under the trigger guard which will be glued in place. the front piller will be fully surrounded by ALOT of bedding the bedding will be 1" deep and 1.75" wide and extend from the front of the trigger group to 3" in front of the action. This action has a Davidson singleshot follower glued in place so the whole mag well will be filler with bedding.

I'm going to add a good bit of atomized SS powder to the Devcon Steel Putty so that its glue to steel ratio is very low , just enought to set up hard (I'm testing that now) and the action screws have been custom made , the rear action scrwon the M-7 comes from the factory way undersized , it has been drilled and tapped for 1/4-28+.010" like the front which was retapped ,the screws are made from 3/8" 17-4 SS flat head torx head screws with 82 deg taper , they have been cut down and single point cut to a snug 1/4-28+.009" thread and hardened the screws fit into the action with zero detectible play and are clean as glass.

The purpose of this gun is to make tiny little groups at 600 and 1000yds with 115gr Berger bullets. but still weigh in the 17lb glass. Personaly i think that I'm way over thinking and way over engineering this project but its gonna be my first run a target comps and I'd like it to be built to be able to hang with the best. If you think this is over built you should see my rest !!
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Old 12-24-2007, 09:51 PM
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Rest? You have an over engineered rest too? I wanna see. Does it look anything like my F-Class rest? I am scared to drag mine to a match cause someone is gonna cry foul, even though it is completely legal.
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Old 12-24-2007, 09:58 PM
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Its not realy over engineered but its definatly over built, what would you expect from a government contractor. It looks kinda like what Mr Don's does but non-windage adjustable at the base , I'll likely use a windage top. Lets say that Mr Don's is made fore a 300 , mines made for a 50BMG !! , theirs no weight class for the rest is their:confused: this thing is gonna weigh in the 30lb range

I just figured that I'd build it big cause I'm planning on a 50 one day.


You have a great Christmas Eddybo and to everybody else that comes alog , this will be my last post for a while , I gotta go play Santa and I'm gonna be wide open tomorrow.
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Old 12-24-2007, 11:46 PM
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No weight limit. I forgot you have not seen my f-class rest. It isnt like my benchrest rest. It looks like a giant 3 legged aluminum and brass tarantula with two inch spikes on the bottom of its feet. I would guess that the legs are 24 inches long. You would have to see a picture to beleive it. Once my wife lets me open my christmas presnt ( a new camera) I will post pics. It is like having a 4 inch tall cement bench.
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