Question about Lapping Seekins Scope Rings

[Shooter Fred]

Originally Posted by jmden

I've got two sets of Seekins rings.

One is a 1" set on a Seekins rail on a Rem 700 300 Rum. I used the sandpaper wrapped around the receiver and then lightly worked the rail forward and backwork over the sandpaper to about 50% 'scuffed' up, to provide a partial custom fit between the two surfaces. Clean all threads and parts and then used a Loctite Product (can't recall the name at the moment) to fill up remaining void spaces between rail and receiver and then torqued it down. This setup required quite a bit of lapping to get the rings true.

The other set is a 30mm set on a BAT HRPIC. The indicators indicated zero lapping needed.

Little difference there between the factory and custom receivers...

A word on lapping kits. Some come with the two pieces of round stock with the pointed cone shaped ends that tell you if you have gotten the rings lapped completely true to each other or not. Other kits do not some with these, from what I've seen in the past. I don't see what the point of goin down the road to lap scope rings is unless you have an accurate, precise way to determine when you have lapped the rings true to each other.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info...I think that Wheeler makes a lapping kit like the first one you had mentioned

From what I here, Aluminum doesn't take near the amount of effort (strokes back and forth) with the lapping bar as steel does

Anything with the Aluminum vs Steel I should be concious of?

[jmden]

I'm far from any expert, but I've lapped steel Leup Mark 4 rings and they definitely take more work for the same amount of metal removed, of course.

Due to the softer Al., you can overdo it, so check with the indicators often as you get closer. Pain in the butt, but you gotta do it. Don't want to lap so much that the ring gaps dissapear.

Wheeler makes the kits I have. I like the indicators. What's the point of lapping if you can't see what you are accomplishing...?

Good luck,

Jon