I have been fighting an issue with a new build. I am not getting a strong primer strike and having many misfires.
.338 EDGE not built by Shawn.
700 Rem long action, no J-lock with a PTG light weight pin assembly. Also the firing pin bore has been bushed.
The pin extrudes .062" when in the fire position.
The pin bore to pin has about .003" clearance
The strikes on the primers that didn't fire look a little weak to me as far as depth, but I have no way to measure it.
The head space between a fired case and one that didn't measures .001" to .0015" I set the shoulder bump die up to just bump the shoulder and also measure the shoulder on fired and unfired to be sure.
I have some of the new brass from Shawn and I got a mis-fire on the very first shot from this rifle. The next 19 rounds fired fine. The 19 unfired case rounds, that fired, were tight closing the bolt, so I bumped the shoulder back just enough for a light smooth bolt close and the next 8 out of 10 didn't fire. I pulled those 8 bullets and sized the necks, re-primed, charged and seated the bullets. the first 2 fired, then some mis fires, and 2 more fired for a total of 4 out of 8.
I did clean the bolt inside and out, de-burred the inside of the pin bore, flushed clean, blew out with air and lightly lubed with light gun oil.
I also have cycled the pin in the bolt shroud to make sure of no interference. It is smooth with no hang ups.
Not sure what to do next. It has me scratching my head pretty good.
I have seen this before with the light firing pin set up.
I would try a standard firing pin to see if the added weight (inertia) would solve this problem.
Also some rifles have a firing pin spring that is to large and snakes down the firing pin and
rubs on the inside of the bolt Slowing the lock time. It is easy to diagnosis because when you
remove the firing pin you can feel the drag on the inside of the bolt.
Some benchresters wont use the light firing pin because of the inconsistency.
I can second JE Custom on the light pin theory and heres my experience.
I've been fighting a similar problem to yours (mis fire with a light strike) with a relatively stock Rem 700, .223. A long time ago I changed the firing pin and spring to a Tubb Speedlock with their Chrome silicon spring. Up until this Winter, everything went bang when it was supposed to. The only fault I had with the setup was this pin was way too loose in the bolt face and even moderately light loads showed some primer flow.
Then while hunting coyotes in January it started to mis-fire with a very light strike. I've had a Hollands oversize pin and spring on the shelf for this gun and this afternoon, I fitted the pin (just a bit tight but free) and assembled.
I fired a few rounds before it got dark and each fired with no primer flow. When dry fired now it definitely feels more solid.
The Tubb pin and spring weigh about 475 grains and had a protrusion of .052" while the hollands setup was about 750 grains and protrudes .057."
I'm going to find the camera and take a pic of the various fired primers and post again.
Hope this helps without confusing.
"It is the duty of the Patriot to protect his Country from its government." ~ Thomas Paine ~
"In the beginning of a change, the PATRIOT is a scarce man, and brave and hated and scorned. When his cause succeeds, the timid join him, for then it cost nothing to be a PATRIOT." ~ Mark Twain 1904 ~
"The 'tolerant' left has come full circle... and has now become what they so despised."
I do feel it could be an inertia problem too. I have a spare stock firing pin assembly , but it has a larger tipped pin. My light pin is .059" So I will either need to turn down the stock pin tip, or open up the bushing in the bolt.
What is the recommended clearance for the pin to pin bore?
With the 338 Edge my guess is that you are using the Fed 215 If so the primer cup on the 215
is very heavy for use in magnum cartridges and will resist flattening and with a light firing pin might
also be to strong/ resistant to proper firing pin strikes.
Just something else to try changing before you go back to the standard firing pin.
Jerry and Pete, Thanks for the replies. I just turned the tip of a standard steel firing pin down to .0025" under the bolt pin bore and put that assembly together. The sound of a dry fire alone gave me a good feeling. The light weight set up always sounded weak to me. Then I took it out and chambered a round that had misfired earlier. I pointed it at the wood pile and let her fly...
It fired! I had tried re-firing these rounds earlier and they would not go on the second hit either. So I felt I gained ground. Then when I visually inspected and compared the strike form the newly installed steel assembly to the others from the LW assembly there is a definite difference. The new strike is noticeably deeper.
So I will resume testing tomorrow and report how it goes.
Thanks for all the help, it is appreciated.
PS: Man! a 300 gr Berger @ 2835 fps does some serious damage to a chunk of fire wood from 15 ft.