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Pillar/skim bedding question

 
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  #1  
Old 01-31-2012, 02:36 PM
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Pillar/skim bedding question

I have seen two schools of thought on pillar bedding techniques. One, the action and the btm metal only touch the pillars, with a non load bearing bed around the action.

The other, the action is on the pillars with the non load bearing bed around it, and the btm metal is up tight into the stock.

Is there any significant difference, accuracy potential wise?
Also, with an aluminum bed block style stock, it would seem that the btm metal would have to be tight up into the cut out.
Do you really need to care about the btm metal?
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  #2  
Old 01-31-2012, 04:47 PM
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Re: Pillar/skim bedding question

Quote:
Originally Posted by WapitiBob View Post
I have seen two schools of thought on pillar bedding techniques. One, the action and the btm metal only touch the pillars, with a non load bearing bed around the action.

The other, the action is on the pillars with the non load bearing bed around it, and the btm metal is up tight into the stock.

Is there any significant difference, accuracy potential wise?
Also, with an aluminum bed block style stock, it would seem that the btm metal would have to be tight up into the cut out.
Do you really need to care about the btm metal?
I prefer the pillars/or block extend to include contact with the bottom metal. In this case you can torque the stock screws to 65#. This eliminates the possibility of the stock compressing over time. If the bottom recess for the bottom metal/trigger guard assembly is mated to the synthetic stock material or wood should back off the torque to 40-45#. I also use non supporting bedding with pillars or just skim coat a bedding block. I also bed the first couple of inches of the barrel where it meets the recoil lug.
As to whether all this effects accuracy, sometimes yes, sometimes no. But it's good practice and rules out poor accuracy due to bedding issues.
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  #3  
Old 01-31-2012, 06:00 PM
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Re: Pillar/skim bedding question

Quote:
Originally Posted by WapitiBob View Post
I have seen two schools of thought on pillar bedding techniques. One, the action and the btm metal only touch the pillars, with a non load bearing bed around the action.

The other, the action is on the pillars with the non load bearing bed around it, and the btm metal is up tight into the stock.

Is there any significant difference, accuracy potential wise?
Also, with an aluminum bed block style stock, it would seem that the btm metal would have to be tight up into the cut out.
Do you really need to care about the btm metal?
The main reason that we pillar bed is to prevent the action from moving or changing the fit
of the stock to the action under all conditions Firing, humidity,heat,cold,shooting positions
and anything else that would make the rifle inconsistent.

Accuracy is also affected if the fit is not absolutely stable.

So it is not so much the method but the end results.

Some shooters actually glue the action into the stock to make sure it doesent change.

I believe in doing a full pillar and bed so that if it does not like it it can be removed in certain
areas by small amounts until it does what you want.(This does not happen often but on several
occasions I have "Tuned " the bedding) and the results were great.

Like some stock materials a good bedding job helps manage the harmonics.

J E CUSTOM
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  #4  
Old 01-31-2012, 07:21 PM
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Re: Pillar/skim bedding question

I dont really understand your question? Bottom metal up tight in stock? It should be in same basic relationship it started ,for fit and finish. For optimium the pillars go from metal to metal. Probably a video here some where. I live close to the,old Lonewolf Stocks and did trade w/ Bob, so I have some insite. If you get Score High pillar kit, they send a nice dvd on process and tips.They use nice adjustable alum. pillars, different types for diff. actions. In their vid. you drill complete through stock for pillar. Pillar is threaded and has inside adjustable sleeve for setting proper height. You can use custom pilot bit, or plug hole and redrill. or get fancy like the smiths that do it for a living and have jig and mill.The kit is handy with reusable handles that hold trigger guard and assembly together. I dont know if this is best way and I have used old bolts and spring clamps w /out guard and no risk of mess on it and had good results. If I had some type of Kevlar glass stock then I would think it ok to go to the Shell so to speak w/pillar as I WOULD NOT SEE that compressing and leaving a clean job
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  #5  
Old 01-31-2012, 10:38 PM
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Location: Bend, Or
Posts: 315
Re: Pillar/skim bedding question

To rephrase the question, I have seen the pillars extended above and below the stock mtl so both, the barrel and the btm metal touch only the pillars. I have also seen where only the top of the pillar is extended, which results in the btm metal being tightened up against the stock cut out.
If the stock is synthetic, does it matter which method is used?
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  #6  
Old 02-01-2012, 12:00 PM
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Location: NW MT
Posts: 2,587
Re: Pillar/skim bedding question

Ok, I would say no, this is comparing to my kevlar glass type stocks, such as my Lonewolf. The pillar goes to the inside of the Shell of the stock at the bottom.
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  #7  
Old 02-04-2012, 02:59 PM
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Re: Pillar/skim bedding question

Quote:
Originally Posted by J E Custom View Post
The main reason that we pillar bed is to prevent the action from moving or changing the fit of the stock to the action under all conditions Firing, humidity,heat,cold,shooting positions and anything else that would make the rifle inconsistent.

Accuracy is also affected if the fit is not absolutely stable.
Wel, all the epoxy bedding materials I know of expand when hot and contract when cold. Which means it doesn't make any difference if there's a round metal bushing around the stock screws and epoxy of some thickness around the rest of the receiver or no pillars at all. When it's cold, the only hard, bedding points are at the pillars; they don't shrink as much as epoxy. The rest of the receiver's not held as tight on its bottom nor any place else. With conventional epoxy bedding, there's more receiver bottom to bedding contact when it's cold; expecially around the stock screws.

Having shot the same two or three rifles in all sorts of temperatures and humidities from the 20's up to almost 100, they all held the same accuracy level with the same load. No pillar bedding. Just plain old full contact epoxy except for the bottom of the recoil lug which is clear of any epoxy.

Of course one should retorque their stock screws before each shooting situation. ths assures the same compression force at the stock screw areas regardless of the type of bedding.

The most accurate shoulder fired rifles I know of are all conventionally epoxy bedded. No pillars at all.

And don't forget; the receiver expands when hot and contracts when cold; just like pillars.
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