If it were me and I was building a true hunting rifle that's going to get hauled around the wilderness I'd have a few other/more prerequisites.
your caliber selection is great. It's an appropriate cartridge for what your doing, easy to load, offers great performance, and has very manageable recoil.
I'd want the rifle easy to carry. Not a 17lb hog for whacking elk at 3/4 of a mile, a nice 11-13lb gun that will not beat a shoulder to death when slung and with a forend narrow enough to be carried by hands less than the size of a gorilla.
A repeater with an internal box and hinged floor plate OR a blind box and just a trigger guard. Detachable magazines on hunting guns have their place, but on a mountain rifle I doubt you'll be getting into a fire fight with a goat.
So (drum roll please) This is what I'd suggest after doing a fair share of these kinds of guns.
A McMillan Hunter edge stock in carbon that's been fitted/bedded/assembled by someone who knows how to build a nice gun.
Any marquee brand #4 fluted barrel in 6.5 with an 8 or 8.5 twist rate
A good quality floor metal like Sunny Hill
Any marquee custom action in 1.350 diameter with a Remington style tang
A good trigger (jewel being my choice)
either a Mil Std base (although it's a bit "russian" for a gun like this) or the excellent Talley bases/rings
chambers: This is a working gun. You don't need or want a neck turn ackley improved, shoots the bullets backwards wildcat minimum saami spec chamber of the week cartridge. It needs to WORK when (not if, when
)you miss and run that bolt at full throttle to make a second attempt on that once in a lifetime animal running away from you.
The std 6.5-284 or maybe even the .297ND 6.5 set up for 140 grain bullets (.105" FB) is a great choice. You size em, load em, shoot em. No loading bench brain damage!
That's my over opinionated opinion and I do build these for a living.