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Need building a rifle advice

 
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  #8  
Old 01-10-2009, 12:50 PM
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Re: Need building a rifle advice

Greywolf,

It shoots very well. I do not have the scope on it now to really tell how well it shoots. @ 100yrds it shoots 1/2" and holds 1" @ 200yrds. It was built for my son, so when he gets bigger we will put a custom stock on it w/ an extended mag box so we can run the bullets to the lands and still have a repeater.

Yes you will have to re-load the 6.5-06. There are other options that will fit your bolt w/o alterations that you can buy factory ammo for. The 6.5-06 is very easy to load for. I start w/ 25-06 brass, clean up the brass, and load. No different than a factory chamber 30-06.

This caliber will handle elk out to 400yrds with a well placed shot and the right bullet. This is my opinion and others will differ. Bigger is always better for elk. 800yrds for deer no problem.

$600 for the barrel work and a little extra plus the value of your donor rifle. This is not a cheap rifle in my opinion. Costs about the same as a high quality factory rifle, but should shoot much better.

Good luck, and have fun w/ it.

Steve
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  #9  
Old 01-11-2009, 10:17 AM
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Re: Need building a rifle advice

Black Hills Ammunition manufactures a 6.5-284 cartridge. They use either Norma or Lapua brass. Can't recall what my brass is at the moment.

This was once considered a wildcat, but it has gained considerable momentum over the years. The load is pretty simple. It has a rebated rim which gets some people all worked up for some reason. I've never had an issue so I can't speak bad about it. It's easy to load, runs great in the gun, and shoots damn well.

Take a case and do all the usual prep work. Cram a Federal GM210 primer in the butt and dump 55 grains of H4831SC in it. Seat a 140 grain bullet just off or into the lands and out of a 28" tube you should run right at 3100fps. If you insist on fussing with the necks just make sure you have at least .0015" of clearance all the way around the neck (.003" larger than the neck OD) otherwise you will experience a pressure problem. You gotta allow the neck to expand to let go of the bullet.

It shoots flat as a board and with a Hornady SST bullet it'll ventilate the respiratory tract on a whitetail with great efficiency. Recoil is very manageable (girlfriends have never been afraid of it), it is extremely accurate and it sneers at the weather. Barrel life is right at about 1200 rounds with a cut rifled, stainless barrel.

You can stoke them up a bit more, but the issue becomes bullet RPM. You need a 1-8ROT barrel for the 140's and anything much past 3100 can get them to act a little weird. 200fps doesn't really get you much so no real reason to press your luck.
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  #10  
Old 01-28-2009, 02:09 PM
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Location: New Bern, NC
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Re: Need building a rifle advice

I've been reading more on the 6.5-284 and it seems that those rifles go through barrels pretty quick. What would be some other good calibers to convert a .30-06 to that would be a good, flat shooting, long range target/hunting rifle that I won't have to rebarrel often? Thanks again for all the help guys!
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  #11  
Old 01-29-2009, 04:28 AM
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Re: Need building a rifle advice

A 6.5-284 will eat a barrel in about 1200 rounds. Now, you have a couple options here. If you hang a whippy spaghetti barrel on it chambered in this cartridge then your going to have to replace the entire barrel. The more affordable option is to get yourself a heavy contour varmint barrel with a 3" long cylinder. Order the barrel to finish at 30" or 32" and then when the throat gets shot out, take it back to gunsmith guy and have it set back enough to chase out the throat with the same reamer.

Walla, now you have a brand new barrel all over again and it's only 2-3 inches shorter than it was. It'll still hammer out to a 1000 just fine until you drop down below 28". That seems to be about the shortest you ever see on a target rig.

Setting the barrel back is what this process is called. It's been done for years and it works great. Competitive shooters do it often. So, think of this cartridge now with a 2400 round barrel service life. Setting the barrel back is also not overly expensive in terms of gunsmithing. Just push the shoulder forward, trim some off the breech, pick up the existing thread and carry it to the new shoulder, and then get busy with the reamer until the barrel headspaces again.

There's a little more to it, but that's the meat of the process.

Done properly the only thing you'll notice is a slight reduction in overall weight and your bullets dropping off a touch in muzzle velocity. It'll shoot just fine. Stoke the load with an extra bit of powder and your back in business. That's why I suggested 55 grains of 4831SC. It's not the fastest load, but it gets the job done and gives room to grow.

to directly answer your question about alternative cartridges, just consider this: What your going to find very quickly is that whenever you decide to make a bullet go faster its going to cost you more money. Speed means heat and it means pressure, neither of which are conjunctive with long barrel life. Another thing to consider is how often you are shooting this thing. If your out every day or several times a week that is one thing. If you make it out a few times a month or a few times a season that is another. Be realistic with yourself as to how much money/time you can truly invest in this. If you are shooting it every day or several times a week then cost really shouldn't be a concern cause you've obviously got the disposable income to buy the components and a job/family that tolerates long hours in the loading room.

(This would be a big reason why I hang onto the one I have for dear life cause she's awesome and we have a 10 year old daughter who is infatuated with guns and bullets; makes for great child/slave labor!)

My point is 1200 rounds can last a lot longer than you think, especially in a hunting rifle.

If you'd like to talk more about it, PM me and we'll see what we come up with.

Chad

Last edited by NesikaChad; 01-29-2009 at 04:43 AM.
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