My .300wsm Build

[bigtoy302]

So after torquing the muzzle brake on and leveling the the action I milled the flats on the muzzle brake. I then flipped it around and did the other side.


I then rotated it 90 degrees and pre-drilled the holes for the slots.


I then put in a 3/8 carbide end mill and milled out the slots.


After that I took everything home and started on the stock. I had to open up the stock for the Badger recoil lug, then I bedded it with Devcon plastic steel epoxy. I first covered all the holes with Play-doh. After that I coated everything with kiwi shoe polish.


I held it all together with masking tape because I did not have a surgical tubing.

[bigtoy302]

I had to cut off the old rubber recoil pad and sand it all down so I could install A Limbsaver pad. Luckily the pad for a normal 700 synthetic stock fit perfect.


I ground up a lapping bar and lapped the new rings in.


Here she is all done. I glass beaded the barrel and brake for a nice matte finish.

I liked the looks of the Pain killer brakes, so I had to make my own ( Sorry Kirby.)

[Ronin]

Looks like you could easily go to work as a gunsmith if you decided to leave the machinist job - hey aren't they in essence the same thing?


I have built a few rifles for myself, I started out with no machining experience (except from high school about 20 yrs ago)

I read lots of books and saw a few videos - which explained alot.

Took things slowly and the resulst certainly shoot well enough and more importantly have passed proof testing.


Its a very satisfying feeling creating something yourself and seeing the end results - you have done yourself proud - final test is how it shoot though!

[petenz]

Very nice

[archdlx]

Super work bigtoy!!!
When can you start on mine?? ;) lol
Can't wait for the pics of your range work.

Awesome,
archdlx

[eddybo]

Great Job I am waiting on a range report. I am in the process of doing my first solo build using lay around parts, kind of a frankingun. My machine skills are a little lacking but I am learning. My barrel is chucked up and indicated in right now. As soon as the electricity is restored I am going to make some chips.

One question? How did you bore your recoil lug in the mill? I bought a lathe fixture for that purpose. What tooling did you use?

Another question.....did trueing those threads scare you any? It scared the heck out of me. I ordered the PTG/KIFF kit to use in the future it scared me so bad. Mine came out real nice, but I do not think I will be doing anymore in the lathe until I get a bit more experiance. I was a nervous wreck whe I got through.

How did you chuck up and indicate your bolt? I was so frazzled from trueing up those threads that I havent attempted that yet. I turned a fixture to screw into the back of the bolt body and a sleeve to hold the front of the bolt in the steady rest. Do you think that is the best way?

[bigtoy302]

Originally Posted by eddybo

One question? How did you bore your recoil lug in the mill? I bought a lathe fixture for that purpose. What tooling did you use?

I dialed it in with a coax indicator then I bored it out with a criterion boring head.

Another question.....did trueing those threads scare you any? It scared the heck out of me.

It was a little scary because I had to open then up almost .025. I indicated it, turned the lathe on and it looked all messed up so I put the bar back in and it was still good so I went ahead and cleaned everything up.

How did you chuck up and indicate your bolt? Do you think that is the best way?

I put a bolt in the back of the bolt to chuck on, then I put the steady rest directly on the bolt just behind the lugs so I could still machine the back of the lugs. I indicated right off the bolt body. I think most people use some kind of collar on the lugs to put the steady rest on but it is way easier to put it on the bolt itself. I just made sure that I used lots of lindsey lube on the steady rest to keep from scratching the bolt.

Ryan