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My .300wsm Build

 
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  #1  
Old 08-14-2008, 01:02 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Eugene, Or
Posts: 28
My .300wsm Build

So this is my first rifle project. I will be doing all the work to the rifle myself. I am not a gunsmith but a machinist with just enough knowledge to hurt something. I am sure I will be doing some stuff differently from some of you real gunsmiths, but like I said before this is all new to me. Don't be affriad to comment on my ways of doing things. I am always up for new ideas. I am starting with a Remington 700 VS in .22-250. Specs for this build.

.300wsm
Factory hs-stock
blueprinted action and bolt
Sako extractor
Wyatt's extended mag box
28" Shilen select match grade stainless barrel #17 contour
muzzle brake
Badger recoil lug
Nightforce nsx 5.5x22x50 mil-dot
nightforce steel rings
Nightforce 20 moa base.

first I made a cat head for the action and ground a .7018 arbor to fit snuggly into the action. I chucked it up, dialed it in and faced the front and the bolt lug face.



Then I used my indicator to fid the center of the threads, then cleaned them up




Ryan

Last edited by bigtoy302; 08-14-2008 at 02:15 AM.
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  #2  
Old 08-15-2008, 12:21 AM
Gold Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 753
Re: My .300wsm Build

Ryan,

I think you are well on your way to having a nice piece when your done.

There's more than a few guys out there "truing" threads with nothing more than a tap that has a long penis sticking out the front of it.

Good job for doing it right.

Are you going to use a pinned recoil lug? I really like these due to the fact that they locate the recoil lug in the same place every time. No tools touching the receiver during final assembly is also nice, especially on actions that have been coated with something. (prone to scratches and nicks)

Have you considered an external bolt release? The one Nesika makes will drop right in and it's not too expensive. It won't match though as its made from SS. It sure makes for an easy way to drop a bolt out of a gun. Just a thought.

Scope holes. 8-40's are nice. If you can though, use that arbor and indicate the action CL off of it and then mill your holes for the screws instead of just chasing the existing ones with a drill. Then you KNOW your on bore CL when you put the bases on.

I like a big chamfer on my recoil lugs so that I can use a healthy radius on my barrel tennons. Just a personal thing, I seriously doubt it really does much.

When you fit the barrel, how much breech clearance do you plan to run?

Do you have access to a CNC with a 4th axis? Helical fluted bolts look cool as hell and they do help with giving grit a place to go when out in the field. Helps to keep the action from lapping itself to bits. Just an idea. . .

Anyways.

Nice job.

Good luck.

~C


Chad Dixon
Gunmaker
LongRifles, Inc. (Coming Soon)
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  #3  
Old 08-15-2008, 12:47 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Eugene, Or
Posts: 28
Re: My .300wsm Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by NesikaChad View Post
Are you going to use a pinned recoil lug?
The lug is not pinned now but I might pin before I put it in.

Quote:
Have you considered an external bolt release?
I never thought of it. I dont think I am going to use one on this build.

Quote:
Scope holes. 8-40's are nice.
I think I am going to thread them 8-40.

Quote:
When you fit the barrel, how much breech clearance do you plan to run?
I plan on .005 on the bolt shoulder and on the bolt lug face unless there is some other magic number.

Quote:
Do you have access to a CNC with a 4th axis?
No acces to a 4th axis. all are machining centers are only 3-axis.

Ryan
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  #4  
Old 08-15-2008, 11:17 PM
Gold Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 753
Re: My .300wsm Build

Bummer on the 4th axis.

Breech clearances are much like opinions so take what I say with some salt as well.

If it's a "trailer queen" bench gun that will spend its life in a controlled environment then run that sucker as tight as you dare. I don't understand why, but if you run a bench gun loose, the customer takes on a strange look when making eye contact with you. They don't like it.

If it is a rifle that runs out in the world, then I'd suggest loosening things up a bit. I set my field guns up to run at about .020". It has NO effect on accuracy, but it does provide some room for fungus and grit during the course of the day.

Some feel that is too much, so put it in comparison; an 03 springfield has so much you can parallel park a car between em', have no fear. Cases are not going to rupture.

Have fun.

C
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  #5  
Old 08-18-2008, 09:24 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Eugene, Or
Posts: 28
Re: My .300wsm Build

So I got a little bit more done on the action and bolt.
I milled out the back of the action for the Wyatt's extended mag box.



Then I put the bolt in the lathe and trued it all up. I opened the bolt face up to magnum size. I forgot my camera at home so no pictures of the bolt in the lathe or mill. After that I tossed it in the mill and put in the Tubbs sako extractor and milled off the bolt nob so I could put on my custom nob.



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  #6  
Old 08-25-2008, 09:06 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Eugene, Or
Posts: 28
Re: My .300wsm Build

So today I got the barrel done. It took a little longer than I wanted but this was my first one so I did not want to mess it all up.

I started my measuring up the action so I could determine what length I needed to make everything.


I then checked the thread pitch diameter with a MTG gage so I know the exact size to make the thread. This action was way out. So I had to enlarge the threads to 1.081-16.


Next I bored the recoil lug to match the new thread size.


I then chucked up the barrel in the lathe dialed it in and cut the threads.


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  #7  
Old 08-25-2008, 09:16 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Eugene, Or
Posts: 28
Re: My .300wsm Build

I then ruff drilled the chamber then went back and cleaned up the hole with a boring bar. I then reamed the chamber to size.



After is was chamber was cut I put my indicator back in and checked to make sure there was no runt out.


Checking the the head space with a gauge.


I put some shim stock on the front of the bolt so I know how much clearance is on the head space gauge.


I then flipped it around and did the crown and cut the threads for the muzzle brake.
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