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Muzzle Brake Removal Question

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  #8  
Unread 01-29-2014, 01:25 PM
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Re: Muzzle Brake Removal Question

Played around with it last night and the taper punch on each side method works good. Thanks for your advice guys.
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  •   #9  
    Unread 01-29-2014, 06:11 PM
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    Re: Muzzle Brake Removal Question

    I have had to remove them for various reasons and I frequently find with Red Loctite in them. They come right off when the directions are followed.

    I used to be a never seez guy but had one on a light weight large caliber magnum come loose after 100 rounds or so and the ports ended up pointing towards the ground during a hunt. The ground blast was blamed for a miss. I now use Blue in all of them.

    I believe there is no need to get in there and do any cleaning. You don't clean the port in the barrel of an AR or AK or any gas operated auto. High pressure gas keeps them functionally clean. In 40+ years I have yet to see a muzzle brake or bore plug shut from not cleaning it.
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      #10  
    Unread 01-29-2014, 07:22 PM
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    Re: Muzzle Brake Removal Question

    The problems arise when the owner wants to practice using the break then take it off and put a thread protecter on while hunting. They've all got an answer when I bring up the change in barrel harmonics and possible POI changes. If I spent more time on the internet maybe I'd be as 'informed' as some are. Most all breaks use a fine thread and it's easy to booger that first thread (or more) when putting it back on if you're not paying attention. Real easy to over torque, too. Some just think they ought to able to take 'um off and play with 'um, I think. Pipe cleaners work nicely for cleaning.
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      #11  
    Unread 01-29-2014, 10:51 PM
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    Re: Muzzle Brake Removal Question

    Probably just O/C, but I have to take them off occasionally if for no other reason than just to be sure they will still come off. When I do, they always have a crappy accumulation of powder and solvent residue inside. That's enough reason for me to keep doing it.

    Some other reasons have been posted. The most common one I've run into is a patch that gets stuck in the brake, and my favorite concentric brake, the Vais, has a chamber in the back of the brake that accumulates so much crap that it needs to be cleaned fairly frequently.

    I use a homemade tool to tap one up tightly or to pop it loose, either a fitted piece of drill rod for concentric brakes or a soft steel or aluminum blade for side port brakes. Choke grease, dead center lube, or NeverSeize on the threads. Fine threads gall very easily when dry. I learned the hard way of course. Had to part one off. Trashed an expensive side port brake.

    My logic for tightening a brake on with a couple of good licks is 1st, since it affects barrel harmonics, I want it to be a part of the barrel, with no possibility to move and be inconsistent. 2nd, is just so it won't start to unwind while I'm shooting. Like a lot of the things we do, this is just my preference for dealing with muzzle brakes, but it works.

    A plug for JE custom: I've got his brakes on 2 of my rifles, and they are phenomenal. One took my .338 x .378 from 50 ft/lbs of recoil to 18.5 ft/lbs. Check out his website @ www.jecustom.com - Home of the Assassin Muzzle Brake. Some good video and data. Well worth the time.

    Good shooting, Tom
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    Last edited by specweldtom; 01-29-2014 at 10:55 PM. Reason: bad grammar
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      #12  
    Unread 01-30-2014, 06:29 AM
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    Re: Muzzle Brake Removal Question

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by shortgrass View Post
    The problems arise when the owner wants to practice using the break then take it off and put a thread protecter on while hunting. They've all got an answer when I bring up the change in barrel harmonics and possible POI changes. If I spent more time on the internet maybe I'd be as 'informed' as some are. Most all breaks use a fine thread and it's easy to booger that first thread (or more) when putting it back on if you're not paying attention. Real easy to over torque, too. Some just think they ought to able to take 'um off and play with 'um, I think. Pipe cleaners work nicely for cleaning.
    +1! This is an excellent opportunity to install a better muzzle brake that you can clean with ease i.e. ...







    ... there are many choices out there!
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      #13  
    Unread 01-30-2014, 10:04 AM
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    Re: Muzzle Brake Removal Question

    For clarification:

    It is not the muzzle brake that needs cleaning as much as the threads.

    If the threads are maintained/cleaned they will become corroded or fouled to the point that
    the brake may not be removable.

    A good example is the breach plug on a muzzle loader. How many people have or have had a
    muzzle loader that the breach plug was/is no longer removable because it was not removed and cleaned every time the rifle was cleaned? I DO>

    I am not saying that the brake should be removed and cleaned every time, But routinely maintained
    so that If a need to remove it arises it will come off without damage.

    Some muzzle brakes are easier to clean than others and if a cleaning patch gets stuck removal
    is easy. Sometimes I remove the brake, spray it down with solvent and let it soak while I am cleaning the rifle. After cleaning the rifle and the threads, I freshen the thread lube and proceed
    to clean the brake. It is amazing how much crud comes out of the brake. also it is easer to clean
    off the rifle.

    In my mind the rifle is not clean until all not just part of it is cleaned and wiped down with an oily rag.

    Do what you want, and live with the outcome.

    This has been a public service announcement Ha Ha

    J E CUSTOM
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