Location: I live in the outdoors, but ihave to stay in the Houston area so I can afford to live outdoors!
I have four customs done with mauser actions. Two are the BRUNO CZ-24 and they both shoot a dot at 100yards...280REM and 7mmMag
The thing i don't like is haveing to drill for the scope. I've done a better job than the smith did on the he did. Also most of the ones I found lately don't have hinged floorplates. I have seen them though for $78 recently.
I was also told that you couldn't build anything over 300WMAG. He also told me no short mags.
When I was doing mine mid 90's you could buy the whole rifle for $60, so it was a pretty cheap way to build a nice hunting gun.
There is not such thing as too many guns, safes or fishing poles!
Location: Wichita for school, Western Kansas for Life
I have built my share of mauser action guns, and my mentor has built a few million. They can make for one heck of a rifle, once you understand the limitations. First of all, you can go to the 300 weatherby length, but I don't recommend removing that much material. 300 win mag length works just fine. You can do anything on an 06 boltface without any issues, and this will likely feed the best. I build my own hinged floor plates out out the fixed ones, and it uses a thumb screw for a release, right infront of the trigger guard. Shells will feed much easier through the magazine, so it is not much of a push feed. If you need more info, help, or a rifle built; shoot me a message, and I'll get you set up with Dr. Bob. Good Shooting,
"It is not the critic who counts, not the man who points out how the strong man stumbled, or where the doer of deeds could have done better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, who's face is marred by dust and sweat and blood, who, at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who know neither victory nor defeat."
I'm on my second mauser build 1st was a spainish mauser and I did a 338 Win Mag with a Pac Nor barrel it just great only problem was the guy who had the action before me ground the rails to much and the second round popped out when you extracted the first. I had the local gunsmith mill the bottom side of rail to give room for shell to hold works great. He told me on the magnum cartridges people have a tendency to grind to much of the rail off. My second build is a Charles Daly in 260 remington. I like the mauser and would bye more.
Mausers are good rifles, some plus's are the actions are fairly cheap, and in the end will shoot just as well as any other, some like the controled round feed and some don't. Some folks will tell you that you'll have more invested in a mauser build than a comercial rifle build, because you have to pay someone to square up everything, but I'd be squaring up a comercial action as well so you would still be ahead of the game on cost. Mausers make great guns to learn smithing on, because the inital investment is quite a bit lower and you're only out your time if there is a screw up, and when it's done it should shoot with the best of them. I've got a turk mauser that I just built up to be a cheap trunk gun in .308, it's not pretty to look at but it shoots, I've got another reciever here that might just become a .260 AI and another Siamese action that I've got a .510 contoured blank for, It'll be a .50 Alaskan with a throat long enough to shoot the BMG bullets, that one should be fun.
I have been sporterizing Mausers for 44 years, but mostly just in the last 11 years.
It can be done with common sense, but I follow the Walsh book for how to modify the feed lips for magnums.
My Mauser shpeal:
The 98 Mauser has:
1) flat bottomed receiver to take torque from rifling
2) controlled feed
3) claw typed extractor
4) safety on firing pin, often modified to be 2 or 3 position M70 type
5) multi stage gas filter on firing pin hole for safety
6) bolt handle is integrally forged as part of bolt body
7) safety lug below rear bridge
8) integral recoil lug
9) knife ejector in bolt lug slot
10 an inner C ring to put the tenon threads in compression
The rem 700 has:
1) receiver made from round tubing
2) push feed
3) little wimpy extractor
4) safety on trigger
5) simple bolt
6) bolt handle tacked on with screw and solder
7) nothing for safety if bolt lugs fail.
8) recoil lug is a modified washer that is captured by the receiver and barrel
9) plunger ejector
10) No inner C ring, so the only thing holding the barrel to the receiver is the tenon threads in tension.
To overcome some of these short comings, the Rem700 may be modified:
1) A flat bottomed shroud may be epoxied around the receiver for benchrest work.
3) A Sako extractor modification may be made to the bolt.
5) Eye protection can be worn when shooting a Rem700.
6) The bolt handle can be TIG welded on the bolt body
8) The receiver and recoil lug may be drilled and pinned together.
10) The Remington factory often puts glue on the tenon threads.
The reason most often sited for dangerous game professional hunters preferring Mausers over Rem700 is the controlled feed.
Kent Reeves Won the Nationals at Camp Perry shooting a 300 Win Mag Mauser in 2006, but more typically the target competitions are won by Winchester M70s, which resemble 98 Mausers.
There are lots of custom Mausers in the $10k - $100k range, but no Rem700s in that range.
The book to get is "Bolt Action Rifles" 4th edition by de Haas.
Of the ~100 bolt action covered in the above book, they seem to all be on the spectrum somewhere between the simple Rem700 and the complex 1898 Mauser design.
I'm on my second mauser 98 build. I think they are a fantastic action to work with. On those that do not have safety on bolt to lock firing pin I would purchase one. I do not like those safetys that are on some of the trigger asemblies that just block the trigger. One other caution if your building a belted magnum be carefull you or your gunsmith does not take to much off the rails or you will have feeding problems. my first build was a 338 win mag and second is 260 remington.