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Lowering "RECOIL" for hunting & Shooting

 
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  #8  
Old 12-18-2012, 09:50 PM
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Re: Lowering "RECOIL" for hunting & Shooting

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Originally Posted by hammertyme View Post

The following statement is just not true to my knowledge.

You will not find a better muzzle brake on the market. There are some very good brakes out there and this is one of them.


Neal

Ummm....EVERYTHING posted on the internet, is opinion.

I also chose my words VERY carefully, I said you would not find a BETTER brake on the market, I did NOT say this was the BEST brake on the market.
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  #9  
Old 12-20-2012, 06:34 PM
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Re: Lowering "RECOIL" for hunting & Shooting

Has anyone tried the "Blackhawk" Recoil reducing stock with a 300WM?? What does it feel like? 223.? 243.? 270.?
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  #10  
Old 12-21-2012, 03:10 AM
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Re: Lowering "RECOIL" for hunting & Shooting

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Originally Posted by Debo View Post
Thanks, I still need to find someone around here with a 300WM with a M--Brake and good recoil pad to try it before I spend the money on something I may not be able to shoot. I see the Sendero II But not just a Sendero, So is that the gun you recomend? Sendero II?
Yes. Currently there's just one Sendero type in production and indeed it is the Sendero SF II.
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:12 AM
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Re: Lowering "RECOIL" for hunting & Shooting

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Originally Posted by Debo View Post
Has anyone tried the "Blackhawk" Recoil reducing stock with a 300WM?? What does it feel like? 223.? 243.? 270.?
I considered the stock because it's a novel idea and would certainly reduce recoil.

If you don't have very good eye relief on your scope though and are careful about keeping well back from the eyepiece that stock is going to cause a lot of cuts from the scope hitting your forehead.
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:15 AM
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Re: Lowering "RECOIL" for hunting & Shooting

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Originally Posted by acloco View Post
Heavier bullet with slower burning powder helps reduce recoil as well.

Google "Pain Killer" muzzle brake. You will not find a better muzzle brake on the market.
No with the same bore size the heavier bullet is going to produce a greater recoil. Check any of the rcoil calculators online.

The only way to get a lower recoil with a heavier bullet is with a substantially lower powder charge. When you get to using the slowest powders you can with the heavier bullets unless you have a very long barrel you will have a lot of unburnt powder that creates a much larger muzzle flash and that also produces a greater "rocket motor effect" which adds to recoil not to mention blinding muzzle flash and excess noise.
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:17 AM
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Re: Lowering "RECOIL" for hunting & Shooting

Quote:
Originally Posted by hammertyme View Post
Currently Savage is outselling everything out there.

Your 110 and 116's (long Action) can be had for a very easy price tag especially used. Savage barrel changes or anything on a Savage as far as that is concerned requires NO gunsmithing if one has a little mechanical talent. Everything that can be done to a Savage takes minutes and no special tools that amounts to anything. There is a huge Savage following because of the ease of changing everything which Saves time and gunsmithing fees.

The following statement is just not true to my knowledge.

You will not find a better muzzle brake on the market. There are some very good brakes out there and this is one of them.

I would contact Jim @ centershotrifles.com and he can and will set you up with anything you need.

Neal
They are both making great MB's, "better" is highly subjective unless you are actually comparing measured felt recoil and recorded rearward motion and muzzle flip.

Felt recoil also varies a great deal depending on how the rifle is set up, fits you, shooting position and recoil pad.
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  #14  
Old 12-21-2012, 07:34 AM
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Re: Lowering "RECOIL" for hunting & Shooting

Well, I would like to know how much PPSI to the shoulder it is with that blackhawk stock with the 300WM. (And a muzzle break if possible) As far as scope bite goes, wouldn't the old way of measuring distance away from scope still work? 35+years ago, We used to take a yellow chalk stick, put baby-power on your RT side of face covering cheek good, bring the gun up like your going to shoot, and then down, mark around the smudge mark left by the baby power, should be a little marks like ( ) on the stock around the smudge in yellow, then recoat your face with more baby powder, and then raise the gun the same way and shoot it. Now you have a smudge over the yellow lines by how much it kicked your shoulder back, sometimes it's a 1/2 inch, or a inch or 1-1/4 -1-3/4 or what ever. then you measure it and Mark that with yellow chalk, then mount the scope twice the travel distance away from the furthest smudge mark end. So if it travels a inch then you mount it at least 2 inches from where your cheek ended up on the stock. Once you know that,(And you can repeat it a few times to make sure you have the farthest mark.) then you have to find a scope with a optical View range that will easily fit into that distance away.. When your all done measuring, a little Pledge on a rag wipes everything off and makes your gun shiny like new.. Of course all stocks were nice "wood" back then.. But I think it would work the same on today's stocks as well. Then "you" should never get bitten as long as "You" shoot the gun.
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