to you guys. I just got my new lathe so expect a bunch of stupid questions. While I had the forklift I finally got my mill off of the crate too. So it is probably going to be double duty stupid questions. I hope yall will bear with me. I am not a complete novice as I have owned and used a lathe/mill combo for several years, but I do not know much compared to you guys. Any tips appreciated.
I have a buddy coming to help me level and set up my lathe tomorrow. What, other than leveling the lathe, should I do before I get started whittling on metal.
I admit that I know just enough to be dangerous.....but dangerous at ever extending distances.
If at all possible, bolt that sucker to the floor. Surface finishes will improve.
The "ideal" set up; cut out the slab foot print of each machine from the floor and poor a new one that is isolated from the rest of the floor. This keeps any vibration local and doesn't transmit to other nearby machines that may be running.
I realize this is not realistic in many applications and many consider it waaaay overkill. However it is viable. Many machine tool equipment manufacturers won't even warranty a machine unless it is set up in this manner (Kitamura, Okuma, Deckel, etc. . .)
Surface finishes are better, but none the less, bolt the machine to the floor if at all possible.
An alternative to drilling the slab is to use a Liqi-lag system. Clean the floor real well and epoxy a steel bedding plate to the floor. If done right it is solid!
Also after you level it get a large piece of stock and cut it at least 12 inches long and measure it. Get all taper out to within 0.0001 and you will be happy that you did. Also ensure that when you cut with a center that it is within the same 0.0001, you would be surprised how bad some tailstocks are. If your is good when you get it I will be VERY surprised!
Yep , agreed with everybody else it needs to be anchored to the floor , even as big that the monster you have is the harmonics will make your finish poor , we anchor all our to the floor via big lags that are set in place at the time the machines slab is poured , can't realy do that in your case , then the machine is elveled and squared then cement is pumped up into the feet and its grouted out , this wa the machines is basicaly screwed and glued to the floor trying to make the tool and its pad one piece.
In your case simply bolting it down should work just fine , at 6000+lbs you shoulden't get to much bad viberation and I dubt that you will be running the lathe and mill at the same time..
My shoulder is doing pretty good considering it was done Tuesday , the wife doesn't want me to drive till next week , if you want pick a day and I'll tote all this stuff up to ya.
J.J.: "My shoulder is doing pretty good considering it was done Tuesday , the wife doesn't want me to drive till next week ,"
If you are refering to a rotator cuff surgery, let the wife win this one. Strive to give it several weeks before you put even light loads on those damaged tendons. It takes VERY little stress to re-tear any such internal cut-and-paste jobs and that decreases the possiblility of a total restoration. Don't ask how I know, but believe it when I say it can still hurt and be weak even after almost 2 years if you do tear it now.
Chad , I'm a Millwright/machinest for Lockheed Martin , I install and setup alot of their manual stuff ,the vendors get to install the big NC toys , I don't do any moving or stuff like that , sorry.
Boomtube , the should job was simple "Distal clavical AC impingment" just went in a cleaned out some scar tissue/calcium build up , had the right should done 5 yrs ago for same thing , the bggest recovery is the big holes the bore through each of my delt heads , unfortunatly the bigger the muscle the deeper the hole = longer recovery. The wife is an OR nurse and she thinks she knows everything :p