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Just finished a Lothar Walther barrel

 
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  #8  
Old 07-05-2008, 09:55 AM
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The best way to handle one of these barrels is to use it for a tomato stake.

Can't stand the dern things.
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  #9  
Old 07-05-2008, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NesikaChad View Post
The best way to handle one of these barrels is to use it for a tomato stake.

Can't stand the dern things.
Chad

Please elaborate !!

I have never used one of these barrels and have no experience
with them but its just a matter of time before someone brings
me one to chamber.

If I have the choice I pick the one best suited for the build, But
some times the customer wants to use a barrel of his choice
and I have to live with it or turn the job down.

ULTIMATELY I am responsible for the accuracy and held accountable
so I would like to know as much about a brand of barrel as possible.

Any comments good or bad are welcome

Thanks
J E CUSTOM
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  #10  
Old 07-05-2008, 12:24 PM
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Oky doky, pull no punches.

My first exposure to "W" barrels was when I started in this trade working for the Anschutz Service Center in Colo springs.

My old boss wanted nothing to do with them. Point well taken from a wise old man.

Then I go to Nesika/Dakota Arms.

Almost every Dakota rifle made uses a "W" barrel. Pains in the arse. We switched to Lilja for awhile, but the higher authorities decided to go back to "W".

They cut weird and they thread weird. It's the only barrel we ever had to "polish" to get the chamber to clean up well. Just gummy, crappy steel. the SS is even more temperamental.

Best to avoid in my opinion.

If you get stuck and have to chamber it, the real fun starts when it comes time to accuracy test the dern things. Get out the JB and put some Ben Gay on those elbows cause your going to be there awhile before the gun settles down and the bore stops looking like a copper mine.

Once they do, they do shoot reasonably well, but cripes the effort to get there just isn't worth it in my book. Not when there are premium barrels out there that offer better performance, machinability, and WITHOUT THE HEADACHES.
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  #11  
Old 07-05-2008, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NesikaChad View Post
My first exposure to "W" barrels was when I started in this trade working for the Anschutz Service Center in Colo springs.

My old boss wanted nothing to do with them. Point well taken from a wise old man.

Then I go to Nesika/Dakota Arms.

Almost every Dakota rifle made uses a "W" barrel. Pains in the arse. We switched to Lilja for awhile, but the higher authorities decided to go back to "W".

They cut weird and they thread weird. It's the only barrel we ever had to "polish" to get the chamber to clean up well. Just gummy, crappy steel. the SS is even more temperamental.

Best to avoid in my opinion

If you get stuck and have to chamber it, the real fun starts when it comes time to accuracy test the dern things. Get out the JB and put some Ben Gay on those elbows cause your going to be there awhile before the gun settles down and the bore stops looking like a copper mine.

Once they do, they do shoot reasonably well, but cripes the effort to get there just isn't worth it in my book. Not when there are premium barrels out there that offer better performance, machinability, and WITHOUT THE HEADACHES.
Thanks Chad !!!!!

Your experience is very extensive and I will heed your warning.

It's interesting that Dakota switched to Lilja only to switch back to
brand "W" .

Lilja is one of my favorite barrels and has the best break in time of
any barrel I use. (10 to 12 shots and its ready to go hunting).

Also lilja barrels have a tight bore and are not bad about fouling.

Thanks again
J E CUSTOM
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  #12  
Old 07-07-2008, 10:43 AM
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Using a live pilot bushing reamer may help alot in that "Crunching" you are getting with these hard barrels.

The solid pilot reamers have more clearance between the bore and the pilot, this allows more vibration or harmonics to develope in the reamer while cutting these hard barrels.

Being able to fit a bushing to within 0.0002" to the bore will dramatically improve the fit to the bore and also reduce the amount of harmonics in the reamer.

I have also found that a heavier moly, sulphur based oil helped some as well to dampen harmonics.

I would tend to agree I am not a fan of the very hard barrels. Rocks and Kriegers are as hard as I like to use personally. They are a good ballance of barrel life and machinability with conventional reamers and cutting fluids.
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  #13  
Old 07-07-2008, 12:13 PM
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Piloted tooling

I have never chambered a barrel (nor will I) with a solid pilot tool.

Every reamer I have ever used (or will ever use) is manufactured by one shop; Pacific Tool and Gauge. In addition to the reamers, I had (have) a complete set of pilots in .0002" increments from .17 on up to 50 caliber.

The machine I used at Nesika is a $65,000.00 piece of equipment. Harrison Alpha 1330U slant bed tool room lathe. Class 9 Gamut tapered spindle bearings, the works. I spent a year tearing the machine apart and putting it back together so it would do one thing better and faster than anyone. (Less than 20 minutes cycle time from "chip to chip" including set up)thread, chamber, crown rifle barrels. The lubrication system was one I designed and built from scratch capable of developing up to 2400lbs of oil pressure inside the barrel. I made my own tool holders that coupled with the VDI system. The reamer holder I designed and built weighs about 25lbs and is a true, non loading/floating assembly indexable to bore centerline in less than a minute. All barrels are supported through the bore using a gimbled jaw set up that I also adapted onto a 3 jaw indexable chuck.

I have tooling (reamers) the likes that no one has ever seen. It was a special research project David Kiff and I worked on together for smaller caliber reamers that don't enjoy the good chip clearance that bigger calibers (reamers) do.

I've used Hart, Mark Chanlynn, Lilja, Pac Nor, Tru Flight, Obermeyer, Mike Rock, Shilen, Kreiger, Bench mark, McMillan, Anschutz, and Atkinson barrels.

None of these behave in this manner when cramming a reamer into the bore. "W" barrels just plain suck IMO.
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Last edited by NesikaChad; 07-07-2008 at 12:22 PM.
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  #14  
Old 07-17-2008, 06:51 PM
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Walther bbls are top notch

I would suggest that those of you who are having some trouble with the Walther barrels contact JB at Accuflite and he can tell you better than I, but the Germans produce better steel than in the US.

Walther steel tubes have maybe .01% sulfur compared to US made bbls which are about 2% I recall. The higher sulfur content in the US steel makes it easier to machine, and we all know that top notch bbls are made all over the US.

However, if you take a Walther bbl knowing that it will take twice the work, you will finish up with an excellent premium bbl. It takes an average of 4-6 hours to chamber a Walther bbl when done correctly. I can appreciate how that is a pain in the *****, but the steel is supreme.

Just FYI
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