For those that have followed my frustration with my .257 Weatherby you know that it has been a long road.
I am hoping to end that road shortly. I just aquired a brand new fibermark stock directly from Weatherby and want to make sure I do it up right. It has the pressure points in the front of the forearm...which I am not super keen on, but that is why I am here.
My intial thought is to glass bed the action and free float the barrel. Is this a good initial thought?
Second, I need to get some additional insight on what exactly to glass on a Mark V. I have done some research on glass bedding, and it seems that each type of action has it's own idiosyncracies. Should I bed the whole action, just the lug, just the lug and tang......?????
Additionally, I have been working the barrel over something awful. I just keep getting carbon out of that thing. This site has helped me immensly. I used to think my barrel was clean because the patches came out white, even though to the naked eye it looked like a corn cob.
Well, I went and got some M-Pro-7 and bronze brushes and have been steadily soaking with the solvent, scrubbing with the brush and then wet patching until clean and then starting over. Every time I do this my first patch is colored blackish/brown. It seems like it is never ending, but the barrel sure feels smoother to push a patch down, and it appears that I am knocking down some of the kernals. I hope this doesn't go on to long...it is getting old.
Thanks for reminding about that thread...I had forgotten about it. You are right, there is alot of great information there.
I have not tried firing it in the stock as is...probably should. I am just tired of not getting good results when I finally get time to go to the range, so I feel like I should do everything I can to make sure I get the desired result.
Somewhat of an update so far though. I tried to attach the action to the stock the other night and it became quickly apparent that I have some "dremel" work to do. Everything seemed to fit fine from the top end, but my 1 pc. floor plate is too long. The recess in the bottom of the stock is not long enough (by very little) to allow it to drop in.
So, if I am reading the other post and understanding it correctly, there are a few key points I need to keep in mind when glassing this baby.
1. The new stock does have pillars. So this means that I should bed the recoil lug tight on all sides, including the bottom.
2. The front action screw hole is a "blind hole". This being the case, I need to make sure I don't get bedding compound in there. To prevent this I should go down to the hardware store and get a 1/4"-28 headless bolt and insert into the hole flush with the bottom of the recoil lug. I assume I just put release agent on it along with the rest of the lug and deal with it after I pull the action from the stock.
3. When I use the headless bolt in the "blind hole" I will not have a way of securing the action to the stock unless I clamp them together. What is the best way of doing this? I have heard of surgical tubing being used. What other methods are there, and what one is preferred/better.
4. Assuming I use the method described in #2 above, what do I do about the rear action screw? Leave it out and let the method of clamping chosen do the same back there?
5. If I am understanding correctly I should glass this baby from the tip of the tang to approximately one inch in front of the recoil lug, tight all the way.
6. I will need to remove some of the stock to allow sufficient amounts of glass to do the job. In addition, I will need to "dremel" some areas out to create mechanical locks so that the glass does not seperate from the stock.
7. It has been awhile since I glassed anything...can you tell I'm nervous as hell?
Thanks for all of your help.
One other thing. If I decide (like I probably should) to strap it in and shoot it before doing anything to it and it shoots like a house of fire (I can dream), would you worry about the pressure pad being a problem where it is a true composite stock?
Last edited by 300winnie; 09-13-2007 at 05:33 PM.
Reason: One more question
2. just saw the heads off (2) about 4" long bolts with threads that are less than 1" long. Screw them into the receiver holes. Use release on them and whether you take them out before or after the bedding sets, they will unscrew with pliers.
3. I pull them out just as soon as I get the action far enough down into the bedding for the action screws to reach the bottom of the receiver and then pull the action down slowly with the action screws. Both ends. JECustom does the best MK V bedding jobs I've ever seen, and he leaves the long bolts in and clamps the action with 2 large spring-loaded plastic clamps. Harbor Freight has them.
4. use the long headless bolts in both holes, they help align the action in the stock. Check to be sure that the barrel is centering in the channel.
5. yes- remember to put release all over the receiver, and 4-5" of the barrel, not just the bottom.
6. yes- rough up every surface that will get bedded. I haven't dug out holes or ridges to trap bedding, but I don't think it would hurt if you did.
7. yes, and with good reason. It's a lot of work and a lot depends on it.
Mask off most of the stock, I use blue painters' tape. I make a considerable mess, and don't want Dremel scars on the outside of the stock, and I don't want bedding compound stuck on it either.
IMO, if the cold shot goes where you want it consistently, leave it alone. If you're not satisfied, float it. You can always experiment and put the tip pressure back.
Bedding jobs are sorta like barrel crowns, some take and some don't, but they can be done again. See line 7!
Shoot it first, and if you decide to bed it, bed the wood stock for practice.. It obviously won't hurt it.
Hope I haven't got the numbers screwed up.
Texas State Rifle Association Life Member
NRA Endowment Life Member
A big fast bullet will beat a little fast bullet every time
If the fibermark stock has the full chassis then you need to shoot
it first .torque it to 65 or 75 inch pounds.
I'm not sure witch barrel contour you have but if it's a #1 or #2
you will nead some tip pressure.
After shooting if not satisfied then look at my post on this issue
on thread " Bullets Barrels and Blistics " dated 08/19/07 . it describes
a method of adjusting tip pressure for accuracy.
As far as bedding I use two long 1/4 28 headless bolts that extend
well past the stock ( at least 1/2 " ) ,Cut all but about 1/4" of the
threads off so the screw bottoms on the bolt body.
Then I use a piece of heat shrink on the screw after using the release
agent.( this helps center the action over the pillars ) on both screws.
Check the fit before applying the bedding compound. after applying
tape to areas to be protected ,spread bedding compound on all
surfaces to be bedded.100% as specweldtom said.
Next I use spring clamps to hold the action down "Note they look like
jumper cable clamps" so as not to flex the stock or the action.
Allow enough cure time that the bedding is tough but not hard and then
remove the screws from the bottom with out disturbing the action or
the clamps. This will help when removing the action after the bedding
Next shoot to see how it does . If not satisfied then float the barrel
and use the method described in my earler post.
Sounds complicated but it's not
Dont give up on the 257 it's a great round and will shoot .
I am going to heed both of your advice first and see how she does just put in the stock, tightened up to prescribed torque and see how it shoots. That makes alot of sense now. If it isn't broken, don't fix it.
If it doesn't shoot at that point...off to the work bench.