Experience with Duracoat?

[Coyboy]

I agree with the rest of the guys, it's tuff if prepped and applied per instructions. I've done quite a few barreled actions and stocks for myself and customers and it is working very well.

Definatly aluminum oxide blast parts first. Then clean with a no residue cleaner/degreaser.
I like to apply 3 coats on areas suseptable to damage.

I do quite a few budget restoration jobs on old rimfires and shotguns, It's easier and cheaper to blast and spray, than polish and reblue.

Granted if you drag your gun across some rocks or rake it down a steel fence post you may damage the finish, but bluing and some other coatings would be damaged as well. anytime there is enough pressure to scratch steel the surface coating is going to take a hit.

[BigDaddy0381]

Originally Posted by Coyboy

I agree with the rest of the guys, it's tuff if prepped and applied per instructions. I've done quite a few barreled actions and stocks for myself and customers and it is working very well.

Definatly aluminum oxide blast parts first. Then clean with a no residue cleaner/degreaser.
I like to apply 3 coats on areas suseptable to damage.

I do quite a few budget restoration jobs on old rimfires and shotguns, It's easier and cheaper to blast and spray, than polish and reblue.

Granted if you drag your gun across some rocks or rake it down a steel fence post you may damage the finish, but bluing and some other coatings would be damaged as well. anytime there is enough pressure to scratch steel the surface coating is going to take a hit.

Well Said,

The TCE cleaner is the best i have found that dosen't leave a film on the rifle.I use it when cold blueing with dicopan (sp) and it works really well with dura coat no bake also.