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Coolant/Oil for Chamber flush

 
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  #1  
Old 12-31-2011, 09:07 AM
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Location: Nashville TN
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Coolant/Oil for Chamber flush

Looking for some guidance for my needs. I recently got all set up for chamber flushing and now need to select my fluid that best fits my needs. I have not done this way of chambering before. Completely new to this.

I am a low volume shop. Maybe 10-15 chamberings a year. Maybe more but thats the current trend.

I would like low maintenance. I have read about synthetic vs others. Seams synthetic is easier to maintain. I will be going many weeks between chambering so I have been told having something like Rustlick 5050 or others may not be the best for me due to inactivity of the fluid. If I am wrong please tell me so. I have some 5050 on hand but will get what what would be better if advised. I have no experience with the "smell" and "growth" but from the sounds of it, I would like to avoid that if possible. I have also read about discoloration of the exposed metal on the lathe...whats that about? I don't want that!

What ratio to use with what product recommendation? And why that ratio? Is it based on volume of your pump, material, cutting speed, or some combination of all three and more?

Thanks in advance. And if you got some other insight that you would like to let me in on....much appreciated! For I'm sure I left out other questions I should have asked.
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:22 PM
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Re: Coolant/Oil for Chamber flush

No one has a suggestion? Surely someone here does it this way and has a recommendation.

Are there any members here that anyone can point me towards that may have an answer?
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Old 01-04-2012, 12:46 PM
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Re: Coolant/Oil for Chamber flush

Quote:
Originally Posted by WARD View Post
No one has a suggestion? Surely someone here does it this way and has a recommendation.

Are there any members here that anyone can point me towards that may have an answer?
the concept of super precision reaming is a closely guarded piece of information right from the start. Probably the best is "Trim CE", but where you but it now I don't know (also the best drilling and tapping fluid out there). I've seen extreme reaming done with everything from the old black cutting oils to plain old mineral seal. Mineral seal will give you the best finish, but has other issues to deal with (it's flamable for one). Does not like a tremendous amount of tool pressure is is trickey to setup. Once you get there it's a winner. Raw Trim (comes in a concentrate to be mixed with strait water) painted on the reamer will do better than 95% of the stuff out there without a fancey coolant system. One bad thing about Trim is that it's hard on the paint job and will eat the seals out of a ball screw, so you gotta remember that issue. Painted on the reamer with a brush will not cause that heart break. Trim CE will handle much higher tool pressure loads than mineral seal if that is an issue. But the micro finish is better with mineral seal as it comes out looking like it was honed. Trim CE will induce some stress in the parent metal if your removing a lot of stock (try to keep the final ream to about .006"). In the heavy machining industry Trim and mineral seal are the goto in 70% of the high precision ream jobs. There are a couple other close copies of that coolant out there, and they work fairly well, but becarefull as at least one is very caustic. Also you can't just dump any of these coolants down the sewer! They all must be handled by a recyceler.
gary
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Old 01-04-2012, 04:12 PM
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Location: Youngsville, NC
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Re: Coolant/Oil for Chamber flush

I use Rustlic 255R as suggested by their engineer for my appication. over the last 7 years I have chambered about 1800 barrels. I cut mine 3:1 and have a 15 gallon reservoir. The best money i have ever spent. I ream at 25-35 psi and flush at 75-125 psi. If you are woried about bacteria add a 1/2 cup of clorox every 6 months.

Two trains of thought 100 lubricant coolant Oil based or semi senthetic with water. No matter what type you use it needs to be an extreme pressure coolant lubricant.

Pump designed around the coolant lubricant, not oil designed around pump.

Heavy oils require higher horsepower pumps and higher dollars to build the system.

Nat Lambeth
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:37 AM
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Re: Coolant/Oil for Chamber flush

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustystud View Post
I use Rustlic 255R as suggested by their engineer for my appication. over the last 7 years I have chambered about 1800 barrels. I cut mine 3:1 and have a 15 gallon reservoir. The best money i have ever spent. I ream at 25-35 psi and flush at 75-125 psi. If you are woried about bacteria add a 1/2 cup of clorox every 6 months.

Two trains of thought 100 lubricant coolant Oil based or semi senthetic with water. No matter what type you use it needs to be an extreme pressure coolant lubricant.

Pump designed around the coolant lubricant, not oil designed around pump.

Heavy oils require higher horsepower pumps and higher dollars to build the system.

Nat Lambeth
you can get lubricity out of coolants as thin as milk, but you have to get the right ones. Most accurate machining coolants I've ever been around were mineral seal, but your insurance company hates them! I think it's time for the concept of precise reaming to move up to modern times. What they are usuing today is 1950 technology
gary
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  #6  
Old 01-05-2012, 11:10 AM
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Re: Coolant/Oil for Chamber flush

I have several reamers with over 1000 chambers cut no wear issues and never reground.

My 308 95 Palma reamer has over 1800 chambers cut.

Rustlick 255R can be cut 10:1, 20:1, or 30:1 according to the manufacture. I tried to cut it 1:1 and found out how "GOJO" is made. I cut mine 5:1 without any ill effects.

Some don't like it because it will remove paint if it contacts a painted surface.

Nat Lambeth
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  #7  
Old 01-05-2012, 11:16 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: greenwood, IN
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Re: Coolant/Oil for Chamber flush

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustystud View Post
I have several reamers with over 1000 chambers cut no wear issues and never reground.

My 308 95 Palma reamer has over 1800 chambers cut.

Rustlick 255R can be cut 10:1, 20:1, or 30:1 according to the manufacture. I tried to cut it 1:1 and found out how "GOJO" is made. I cut mine 5:1 without any ill effects.

Some don't like it because it will remove paint if it contacts a painted surface.

Nat Lambeth
that's similar to what we used with Trim CE (water ratio), but what I was implying is that the best ream jobs come from mineral seal and custom ground Mapol reamers.
gary
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