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Clueless

 
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Old 10-25-2012, 11:52 AM
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Clueless

any ideas for a gunsmith to build a light weight tack driver....ive been viewing lrh forums for a while (non member) ive noticed that a lot of the guns on here are heavy....im looking for a light weight 300 wsm 24inch barrel around 7 pounds....is that possible or would you suggest just buying a 700 or a 70 (really like the looks of the extreme condtions but ive read bad reviews).....i have a a 700 sps 308 just sitting in the safe could be used for an action ( but i hear conflicting stories on sa used for a 300 wsm)...budget would be under $2000....
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:27 AM
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Re: Clueless

Quote:
Originally Posted by buckhunter50 View Post
any ideas for a gunsmith to build a light weight tack driver....ive been viewing lrh forums for a while (non member) ive noticed that a lot of the guns on here are heavy....im looking for a light weight 300 wsm 24inch barrel around 7 pounds....is that possible or would you suggest just buying a 700 or a 70 (really like the looks of the extreme condtions but ive read bad reviews).....i have a a 700 sps 308 just sitting in the safe could be used for an action ( but i hear conflicting stories on sa used for a 300 wsm)...budget would be under $2000....
There are some fundamental reasons for the heaver barrels. They tend to be easer to find a load
for(More forgiving) and with long barrels they need to be a little heaver to minimize barrel whip/
harmonics.

They are also easier to hold steady in the wind and with a poor position. (Off hand or no rest)

A light weight rifle can shoot just as well as a heaver rifle as long as it is set up correctly.

If I build one I recomend a shorter barrel based on the contour and caliber. I use only the
best barrels (To eliminate the possibility of it being a problem with accuracy)

Next, I hold the head space to a minimum to avoid cartrige movement in the chamber.
In fact the lighter rifle needs to be the best a smith can build to minimize the effects of a light
rifle on harmonics.

Bedding requirements are somewhat different for the light rifle also.

Reloading is essential if you want accuracy. The odds of finding factory ammo that it will like
are slim to none.

I personally dont like to use anything less than a # 5 or #6 contour and save weight by using
a lighter scope and mounts. 14x plus scopes can weigh up to 4&1/2 pounds all the way down to
less than 2 pounds. (These are not the cheeper scopes that cut corners).

Barrels are the last place I want to shave weight when there are other ways that will not
effect accuracy.

Don't base a rifles weight on what you like as much as on its intended use.

Just my opinion

J E CUSTOM
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:00 AM
Edd Edd is offline
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Re: Clueless

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Originally Posted by J E Custom View Post
Bedding requirements are somewhat different for the light rifle also.
J E CUSTOM
Would you explain this.
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:24 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Arizona
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Re: Clueless

Quote:
Originally Posted by buckhunter50 View Post
any ideas for a gunsmith to build a light weight tack driver....ive been viewing lrh forums for a while (non member) ive noticed that a lot of the guns on here are heavy....im looking for a light weight 300 wsm 24inch barrel around 7 pounds....is that possible or would you suggest just buying a 700 or a 70 (really like the looks of the extreme condtions but ive read bad reviews).....i have a a 700 sps 308 just sitting in the safe could be used for an action ( but i hear conflicting stories on sa used for a 300 wsm)...budget would be under $2000....
Check out RW Snyder Gunsmithing in Iowa. I purchased one of his used Custom Rem 700r 308 rifles on Snipers Hide Forum and he has been very responsive and helpful. He has Custom Rem 700r's starting at $1500 and you can add the goodies for additional fees. Tack driver- shoots better than me.
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:26 PM
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Location: Texas
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Re: Clueless

Quote:
Originally Posted by Edd View Post
Would you explain this.
No problem.

The light weight barrels sometimes require the bedding to be 1/2 to 1'' beyond the recoil pad
to help support the barrel and dampen the harmonics.

This is the reason that some sporter rifles have tip pressure near the end of the fore end.
I dont like tip pressure because as the barrel heats up the zero starts to move. So if this is
the case with a light contour I like to place a band of bedding about 1'' wide with no pressure
on the barrel but in contact with it, this realy helps the barrel deal with the harmonics. I
have also placed 2 screws near the fore end 90o from each other for adjustable tip pressure
on the barrel.

On heavy barrels a good pillar bed and full float is all that is normally needed.

Each rifle reacts differently and should be addressed accordingly to get the optimum
performance from it.

Just like the bedding of different actions requires different techniques, barrels of different
lengths and contours require some different bedding.

J E CUSTOM
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:00 PM
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Re: Clueless

For a 7lb rifle with out the scope, you can run a fluted #4 and finish between 24-26". If you wanna go with a 7lb scoped rifle then you need a #3 fluted finishing 24". The reason to go with fluting is so you can run the biggest dia barrel with the least amount of weight.
Chris
Benchmark Barrels
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  #7  
Old 10-29-2012, 09:35 PM
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Location: Sonoma County, CA
Posts: 824
Re: Clueless

Here's one of many ideas for you. I have a 700 in 300 WM. The bbl is 25", it's the Broughton 5C in a 4.1 contour. Most of the weight is in the barrel. It is stocked with a McMillan Edge Remington Sporter stock, and wears a Leupold VX-III 4.5x14x40. If I remember right, the overall weight is right about 7-3/4 lb. You can easily carry this gun all day long and I have shot deer to 765 yds accurately. The gun will shoot further but I've always felt this was a safe distance to accurately take game. Heavier guns will be more accurate at longer ranges. Hope this helps.
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