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******Cincinnati Lathe ???********

 
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  #15  
Old 05-04-2010, 03:49 PM
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Re: ******Cincinnati Lathe ???********

The lathe in the picture will chamber a 19" barrel when I use the spider chuck I made for it. I could produce a barrel as short as 18" if I chamber it first, then cut it to length and machine the crown last.

This is what the spider chuck looks like.



If you get a lathe you will discover they are very handy to have around.

Fitch
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  #16  
Old 05-04-2010, 07:46 PM
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Re: ******Cincinnati Lathe ???********

Very neat, Fitch. I never thought of making a spider chuck to drive the barrel with. Good to know it works. I also like the short headstock and spindle. It really would make finishing a short barrel easier. The minimum barrel length I can get in my chuck and use an external spider on the back end of the spindle is 24", and that's working very close. I set both of my 20" barrels up and worked the chamber or muzzle end in front of the steadyrest, but am building an internal centering sleeve that is almost a body fit in the I.D. of the spindle, and uses a female cone in the end to center up whichever end is not being worked. I stole the idea from my brother. It will let me work a barrel as short as 16 1/2" (safely over the minimum length for a rifle barrel) in the chuck. It is also very fast to set up. About 1 minute, as compared to 15 - 30 minutes indicating the back end of the barrel to run true in the external spider. The area around the back end of my spindle is crowded with drive sheaves, spud gearing, cabinetry, etc, and makes centering slow.

Bottom line, I would like a short headstock and spindle, but it's not a deal breaker for me. Even for the light work of barreling, I would rather have an old heavy lathe, as long as it's not worn out. Mine is a 1972 eight foot Romi, made in Brazil, 1.4" spindle bore, 13" swing over the ways, and just over 60" between centers. It's relatively old, has a small spindle bore, is very long and heavy, and I wouldn't take for it. I'm not good enough to need anything better. It will cut blue curls when I want to, or it will hold .0005" (whenever I can). I'm glad I found it because I couldn't afford a new $5000 import. Even with the tooling I had to buy for it, I'm still at about $2500 total invested. I do realize how lucky I was to turn what looked like a hopeless derelict into a good machine.

I recognize maybe more than most that buying a used lathe is something of a crapshoot, but if you do your homework, the odds start to swing in your favor.

Good luck, Tom
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  #17  
Old 05-04-2010, 10:41 PM
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Re: ******Cincinnati Lathe ???********

Fitch, are you able to cut threads using a spider like what you got, can you treat it like it is a four jaw chuck or do have to go easy. I am under the impression that you want to set up your barrel and cut the threads and chamber on one wack not resetting.

Grizzly sells a set up kinda like that. T10109 Gunsmith D1-5 Back Plate
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  #18  
Old 05-05-2010, 07:16 AM
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Re: ******Cincinnati Lathe ???********

I think another thing to take into consideration, that I haven't heard mentioned yet, is the weight of the tailstock. You'll only be cutting about .050 per pass so you will have the reamer in and out of the barrel to remove the chips. If that tailstock weighs 50-60 lbs. it can be pretty hard to control the floating reamer/holder and move that tailstock w/ one hand, even on one that moves easily. You need to be able to 'feel' the tool.
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  #19  
Old 05-05-2010, 07:46 AM
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Re: ******Cincinnati Lathe ???********

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigngreen View Post
Fitch, are you able to cut threads using a spider like what you got, can you treat it like it is a four jaw chuck or do have to go easy. I am under the impression that you want to set up your barrel and cut the threads and chamber on one wack not resetting.
I cut tenons, threads, chamber and crown using the spider chuck. I take lighter cuts turning the tenon than I might if I was using the 4J, but I always go easy cutting threads and use a manual floating reamer pusher so there is little torque when I'm reaming. I take light cuts cutting crowns.

I use the 4J for truing actions and other things but I do all my chambering in the spider chuck.

Quote:
Grizzly sells a set up kinda like that. T10109 Gunsmith D1-5 Back Plate
I've seen the Grizzly version. I don't like all the clamp bolts sticking out of it. It is unavoidable to have one's hands and arms in the vicinity of the spinning chuck when doing barrel work. Those exposed bolts look like a major safety hazard to me. I designed mine so it has a smooth OD and front. It might be possible to replace the bolts in the Grizzly with setscrews that leave a smooth OD. Add brass or copper tips to the setscrews.

Fitch
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  #20  
Old 05-05-2010, 08:28 AM
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Re: ******Cincinnati Lathe ???********

Fitch, thanks for a very timely reminder about things that stick out that you could get hung up in.

If you're lucky, all that you get is cut, bruised, slashed, lose a finger or two, or have your clothes ripped off. That's if you're lucky. Any of the lathes we've talked about are powerful enough to dismember or kill you if you get careless and get hung up in them. The bolts sticking out of the Grizzly spider chuck are scary to me.

Thanks again, Tom
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  #21  
Old 05-05-2010, 08:53 AM
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Re: ******Cincinnati Lathe ???********

Fitch,
I really like how you don't have spider bolt hanging out also, it looks real clean and it looks better supported using more material also.

Getting wound up in a lathe is not the way to check out of this world, I've seen a few safty pics of the results, almost vomited!!!

Thanks for the reply.
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