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******Cincinnati Lathe ???********

 
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  #1  
Old 04-22-2010, 10:45 AM
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******Cincinnati Lathe ???********

I have found a 5 foot Cincinnati Lathe for sale . I was wondering if this would be a good Lathe to use on rebarrel jobs . I want a Lathe so I can install my own barrels not for anyone else just as a hobbie so what do you all think. Will this get the job done ? If so what would be a fair price ? I know the individual that owns it and he says he hardly ever uses it so I want to offer him a fair price were both of us will be happy in the end .

Thanks for your insite.

BigBuck
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Old 04-22-2010, 04:50 PM
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Re: ******Cincinnati Lathe ???********

Yes, Cincinnati is a good brand. How old is the machine (older American made lathes may not be equipped to cut metric threads ie Howa), what condition is it in (particularly the ways and bed), and finally what tooling are you gettting with it (chucks, DRO, tool holders, steady rest, etc)?
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Old 04-22-2010, 05:48 PM
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Re: ******Cincinnati Lathe ???********

Ditto what FJ40 said, plus it needs a 1.5" spindle bore (or at least over 1.25"), and at least 36" between centers. If 5' means overall length, it may not have 36" between centers. If it has a quick-change for threading, be sure they all work. But if it is old enough to use a set of spud gears for threading, be sure they are all there. To me, these are necessary features.
If it doesn't have a steady rest, you may not be able to find one, and it is very desirable for some barrel work. A follow rest is good, but not essential, also a taper bar is handy sometimes, but not a necessity either. Oh yeah, if it's a 3 phase motor, you'll need 3 phase power or a good convertor.

A good test for a lathe is to chuck up a piece of 1" or larger diameter barstock, face it off near the chuck, center drill it, then move that end down to a live center in the tailstock, tighten the chuck with about 1 foot of the barstock available to cut on, take a cut on it and mike the bar after cutting. If the spindle and tailstock are aligned well, you should get .0005" or less difference in the diameter at both ends. You might be able to live with .001", but you won't like it, and it'll cause you a lot of problems. I know, because it took me many hours to get mine to do .0005", and I never did get it perfect.
I'm a mullet at this stuff, but maybe some more folks will jump in with more and better knowledge. There may already be a ton of info on this subject, but I rarely find what I'm looking for when I search. I'm also a mullet on computers.

Good luck. A good lathe is a pleasure to work with, but a clunker is useless. Cincinnati was a good machine, but if it's worn out, it can't do gun work.

Tom
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Last edited by specweldtom; 04-22-2010 at 05:51 PM. Reason: crappy spelling
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Old 04-23-2010, 08:39 AM
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Re: ******Cincinnati Lathe ???********

I left commercial machine shops many years ago, "tape" machines were just coming into use. Those old manuel machines can be purchased at a deep discount, but, the cost of tooling and tool holders is where the real cost is! Do you have machine tool experiance? Can you re-sharpen single point threading & turning tools? Do you have a 12" machinists level so you can level the machine? If you don't get the stuff you may need (like a steady rest) you may never find one ( My old vertical mill was made by Index. It has a B&S #9 taper in the quill. That taper has been obsolete, even on grinding machines, for several years now, and as such, tool holders and collets are very hard to find, I had to make what I needed). Lathe chucks can be replaced and sometimes they need to be. The standards for attachment to the splindle have been around for years, plan on $350/$500 for a 6"/8" 4 jaw chuck, you might need a 'back plate' too. The tail stock has adjustments for alining it to the spindle. That just takes time and a good indicator w/magnetic base. These thoughts are just add to those by specweldtom.I'm not trying to discourage you here. The cost of those related, required items is alot more than having a dozen or so barrels threaded, chambered and crowned at current prices.
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Old 04-23-2010, 08:45 AM
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Re: ******Cincinnati Lathe ???********

fj40mojo and specweldtom . Thanks for your help I sure don't want to buy a clunker that I can't use long after I've spent the money. The only other thing I know is that he said you can adjust the rpm by a dial and that it has a chart for whatever thread you want to cut that's labeled A,B,C,D for different settings. I plan on taking a family member with me as I don't know anything about a lathe . This person started out running manual lathes and now runs a million dollar Monarch that is totally ran by computers he's been doing machining for about 28 years now my luck he's forgot the manual lathe
I still feel better getting some advice from this site because he hasn't ever done gun work And I need to be sure that this machine will do everything I need . Once I've looked at it I'll write down all the gadgets that it has and post it on this thread . Thanks again and if their is anything else that I need to look for just say on ......


BigBuck
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Old 04-23-2010, 10:14 AM
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Re: ******Cincinnati Lathe ???********

Quote:
Originally Posted by shortgrass View Post
I left commercial machine shops many years ago, "tape" machines were just coming into use. Those old manuel machines can be purchased at a deep discount, but, the cost of tooling and tool holders is where the real cost is! Do you have machine tool experiance? Can you re-sharpen single point threading & turning tools? Do you have a 12" machinists level so you can level the machine? If you don't get the stuff you may need (like a steady rest) you may never find one ( My old vertical mill was made by Index. It has a B&S #9 taper in the quill. That taper has been obsolete, even on grinding machines, for several years now, and as such, tool holders and collets are very hard to find, I had to make what I needed). Lathe chucks can be replaced and sometimes they need to be. The standards for attachment to the splindle have been around for years, plan on $350/$500 for a 6"/8" 4 jaw chuck, you might need a 'back plate' too. The tail stock has adjustments for alining it to the spindle. That just takes time and a good indicator w/magnetic base. These thoughts are just add to those by specweldtom.I'm not trying to discourage you here. The cost of those related, required items is alot more than having a dozen or so barrels threaded, chambered and crowned at current prices.
Thanks for your information it raises a lot of questions concerning would I really want to purchase one . This individual needs a metal roof on his house and we may work out some HORSE Trading for it but I really need to know the info that you mentioned so I can figure my over all cost of getting set up . With that being said I feel that if I were to get good enough to install my own 30'' HART barrel in a .338 Edge I would feel different about the gun because I put it together myself . If you fellas have installed your own barrels already I'm sure you can understand what I mean .

Thanks for all the help

BigBuck
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  #7  
Old 04-23-2010, 10:23 AM
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Re: ******Cincinnati Lathe ???********

Bigbuck, the spindle speed dial control is very convenient. It is all geared with knobs and / or levers for selecting spindle RPM. No belt changing. Handy. Also, the threading pitch selection by levers and knobs.... A, B, C etc, is very convenient. My guess is that this lathe will also have 3 or 4 spud gears in the headstock that can be configured to allow cutting inch or metric threads.

Something I forgot to mention is being sure that the threading tables on the lathe are easy to read, not beat up or faded. The turning and facing tables also, but they're not as critical as the threading tables and the spud gear arrangement for inch or metric threads.

You've got a real ace in the hole taking an experienced machinist with you. He can inspect, test, and evaluate the condition of the lathe on the spot, and you can check for the features you need to do gunwork. No matter what lathe you end up with, he can also advise you on the best place to put it, and how to set it up. He can also help you learn how to dress tools, select surface speeds and feeds for different materials and sizes, choose tooling, all the things shortgrass listed, plus a lot of stuff you won't find in a book. (I'm convinced that "parting off" is black magic). I manage, but I've decided that being self taught means I have a dummy for a teacher. There is nothing like having a teacher who has made a living doing what he's teaching.

Hope it works out. Good luck, Tom
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