Chad, that was an excellent write up on Shiper's Hide. Thanks for the link to it.
I will probably never duplicate that level of perfection, but the bedding job below was done with commonly available stuff. I used Devcon 10110, Kiwi shoe polish, etc. I do have a mill and used that together with a round sanding block to hog out the stock, and I made my own rear pillar from steel rod purchased at Home Despot, but this is a non-provessional DIY bedding job in a BVSS which is what the original poster was asking about (a 112 long action BVSS in 7mag).
I read your mixing strategy with some interest because I discovered two air bubbles in the material when I trimmed it in the mill, they are visible in the picture. I'm going to try the thin layer mixing strategy you describe next time to see if that helps. My buddy uses a vacuume machine (purchased at a school surplus sale) to degas epoxy and eliminate air bubbles when he makes castings, but my concern is that it will reduce the working time more than I'd like. I may try it anyway one of these times.
This (the 6th) looks much better than my first couple of bedding jobs. I'm still learning a lot with each one, but they are at least looking a bit better and shooting better.
Possibly of use to the original poster: The tang that holds the magazine box in place (in most savages and in the BVSS for sure) extends back over the rear pillar. Leaving the magazine box in the rifle while bedding it and leaving that tang in the load path for the rear action screw isn't a good idea. What I did was to make a new rear pillar that was a copy of the original but longer than the original by the tang thickness plus .010". I added a .010" shim washer on top of the original front pillar. I removed the front pillar, cleaned the finish out of the hole and epoxied it in place. Then I epoxied the new rear pillar in. After making sure the receiver touched nothing but the tops of the pillars and all was properly aligned, I went ahead and bedded the rifle using some alignment studs that are 19/64" in diameter to center the action screws in the "N" drill holes in the pillars.
During trimming I milled the notch in the picture into the epoxy and trimmed the tang to fit (with a hacksaw and file) so that it is restrained to the space but not "clamped" by the receiver and the stock. I adjusted the little pushed out tang, that's invisible in this picture, so that the magazine box just "snaps" in place as shown. The rifle loads and feeds beautifully using this approach.
I also milled a notch for clearance of the alignment pin on the recoil lug which is where the air bubble on the right was discovered. There is some stamped lettering on the bottom of the receiver that will "print" in the epoxy. I carefully work that out of the epoxy after it is cured so it isn't touching using a very fine die makers riffler file (shaped like a finger with very fine teeth). There is a lot of contact area so having those couple of spots at less than contact isn't going to hurt anything.
The proof of the pudding is in consistant smaller than 1/2 MOA groups with two different bullets (150g TTSX and 180 Berger), which is closer to minute of ground hog than minute of mountain, definitely smaller than minute of deer, way less than minute of mountain range (loved that expression), and load development is just starting.