Originally Posted by treeslayer
Ok that help me out alot. Now I hate to say this but what do you think would be cheaper to do, make the 06 bolt work or buy one at .523"? Then is there any thing I should to do that action? I do want a trusted gun and reach out and touch an elk or antelple. I have looked at the Douglas barrels. What is your thought on them?
Which is cheaper...that's a straight forward cost analysis.
To get your current action ready to go you need to....
1. Open bolt face and install new extractor
2. true-up/blueprint the action (this squares bolt face, laps locking lugs and squares action). You can learn more about blueprinting an action here:
A gunsmith can tell you the cost to have this done. Looking at Kevin Cram's website (visit www.montourcountyrifles.com
and click on 'price list'), he charges $40 for the extractor and $150 for blueprinting. $190 total.
Replacing your bolt involves lots of options. Might be best to talk to the guys at Pacific Tool and Gauge and they can go over all your options. Not sure what a new bolt does to the cost with a gunsmith.
In terms of barrels, pretty much all the custom barrel makers produce a good product. Personally, when looking for accuracy, my go-to barrels have cut rifling. Brux and Krieger make cut rifle barrels. The Broughton 5C (canted rifling) barrels are also very good. These are just my preferences, you can't go wrong if you go with Douglas, Lilja, Hart etc.
What would be more important than choosing a barrel maker, will be barrel length and contour. For a 338RUM you should consider 28" long as a minimum. For the contour, heavier barrels tend to be more accurate. Personally, I would consider a barrel that tapers to .825" at the muzzle to be a minimum and would probably prefer .950" at the muzzle to be better.
Are you planning to install a muzzle brake
? They are a nice option and make the big magnums (like the 338RUM) a pussy cat to shoot. Center Shot Rifles (www.centershotrifles.com
) has some great options. Their 'standard' and their Muscle Brakes do a great job.
This leads me to a final note on barrels. If you plan to install a muzzle brake, 28" is about the longest barrel you can use and still get the rifle into a 'standard' rifle case. When you get longer than that, you will need a new case that is extra long. Long cases are (especially hard-cases) are expensive.
If you go without a brake, you can go up to a 29.5" of barrel and still get into a 'standard' case.
I tell you this from experience. My newest build is a 300RUM with a 32" barrel. If I had to do over again, I would go with a shorter barrel just so I could get it into a standard case. My 300RUM by MCR
Other things you should do....
Tune/Replace Trigger: You want a trigger pull of 2lbs or less. Tuned Remington triggers are ok, but a custom trigger like a Jewell, Timney, or Rifle Basix is MUCH better.
Stock: replace the factory stock with a quality stock that you like. Think HS Precision, Manners, McMillan, B&C etc.
Essentially, from your current '06 rifle, the only thing you will keep is the action. You will pretty much replace everything else.