broke my first rifle...

rscott5028 · #8 06-13-2011, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hired Gun

[...]FWIW: I fit these for what you paid for that brake alone.[...]

Thanks for the great pointers. I like and trust Darrel Holland's products. But, I'm open minded. I couldn't get to your website??

FWIF: This brake cost me about $8k. The next one should be considerably less expensive.

-- richard

msalm · #9 06-13-2011, 10:34 AM

Next time you go about this, thread your barrel, set the shoulder back on the barrel thread to 'time' the brake to it, bore the brake out to the proper diameter (single point) and then (with the brake installed) dial in the outside of the barrel and blend in the back of the brake with the compound set to the proper angle... No need to go turning off the back of the brake. You should only have to chuck up one item to install a brake, and that's the barrel.

rscott5028 · #10 06-13-2011, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by msalm

Next time you go about this, thread your barrel, set the shoulder back on the barrel thread to 'time' the brake to it, bore the brake out to the proper diameter (single point) and then (with the brake installed) dial in the outside of the barrel and blend in the back of the brake with the compound set to the proper angle... No need to go turning off the back of the brake. You should only have to chuck up one item to install a brake, and that's the barrel.

That's what I'm gathering from the recommendations.

The brake had a frosted finish to begin with and I wasn't sure how it would polish and I don't really like polishing on the lathe. So, I was hesitant to turn the OD of the brake.

I think it worked out in the end. But, I've learned a few things here that should help out next time.

thanks!!
Richard

rscott5028 · #11 06-20-2011, 10:30 AM

I finally finished bedding the rifle and took my son out to shoot it yesterday.

I fired 2, one after bore sighting and one after correcting elevation and windage.

The brake works like a champ.

My son put the remaining 6 142g SMKs for that load in one ragged hole @100yds.

The rest of the loads were with various seating depths and varied up to .75".

I think it's ready for long range practice and I can't wait for him to nail a deer this winter. ...not sure if we'll use SMK or switch to Berger.

Thanks for the help/pointers!
-- richard

ken snyder · #12 06-20-2011, 12:14 PM

Looks like a nice brake. Cut the holes last after the barrel has been torgued to the action and the brake torqued to the muzzle. Zero rotation alignment problems every time. Plus or minus 10 seconds is good enough. As long as you centered off the bore useing a spud you should be good to go. I use a minnimum hole diameter of .040 over bore size. In my opinion the baffles also need to be crowned, but crowning them is my preference, I think they're a bit quieter that way and a little easier to tune a load.

Hired Gun · #13 06-20-2011, 12:33 PM

I use .020" over bullet diameter. I never have tried looser. I have read that tighter is supposed to be more efficient but have never personally tested them. How did you come to settle on .040"?

rscott5028 · #14 06-20-2011, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hired Gun

I use .020" over bullet diameter. I never have tried looser. I have read that tighter is supposed to be more efficient but have never personally tested them. How did you come to settle on .040"?

Same here... I thought closer tolerance within reason was more effective at diverting gases through the baffles and thus reducing recoil with correspondingly more noise being a principle byproduct.

...as compared to suppressors that largely convert the pressures to heat rather than noise.

???

-- richard