Originally Posted by BRIT
When Bedding a Rem 700 or Rifle of similar footprint should the first portion of the barrel shank be Bedded in front of the recoil lug as part of the job?
I have seen photos of bedding where the barrel has been Bedded for the first inch or two and others where the barrel is left fully floating.
What are the factors involved in deciding to do this and what are the pros and cons please?
Bedding a rifle is not a cookie cutter process in my opinion. I look at the requirements/uses
of the rifle, the Type of action, barrel contour (Straight taper or contoured) and the weight
and length of the barrel to make the decision on the type of bedding.
If it is a heavy,long barrel I bed up to 1 " if it the shank is straight in front of the reciever.
If it is a short, light barrel then I only bed about 1/2" in front of the reciever.And as others
have said if it doesn't shoot well I can remove it back to the reciever without changing the
On some rifles that are bench/target type rifles that shoot rapid fire strings that heat up the
barrels I will try to full float the barrel for better cooling.
As far as bedding the recoil lug I like to lock it in with full bedding except for the bottom of the
lug, I clearance it .020 for heat growth.
The recoil lug is the anchor for the action and the action screws only hold it down so any
growth will be back and the screws will allow this without binding the action.
There are many different ways to bed a rifle and others have good luck with bedding
differently but this is what has worked best for me.
PS; On actions that the front action screw goes into the recoil lug (Weatherbys,Winchesters,
Mauser's etc) I 100% bed the recoil lug and float the action screws(I don't want them to
touch the pillars on the sides.
Just the way I do it.
J E CUSTOM