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Bedding in front of recoil lug

 
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  #1  
Old 10-09-2010, 08:00 PM
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Bedding in front of recoil lug

Hi Gents
When Bedding a Rem 700 or Rifle of similar footprint should the first portion of the barrel shank be Bedded in front of the recoil lug as part of the job?
I have seen photos of bedding where the barrel has been Bedded for the first inch or two and others where the barrel is left fully floating.
What are the factors involved in deciding to do this and what are the pros and cons please?

Many Thanks

BRIT
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  #2  
Old 10-09-2010, 08:09 PM
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Re: Bedding in front of recoil lug

I have always just bedded up to and around the recoil lug. That being said I disassembled two exceptionally accurate rifles I bought from others. Full custom jobs from two different smiths. Both have been bedded for about two inches infront the lug. Next gun I bed I'll try it.
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Old 10-12-2010, 12:52 PM
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Re: Bedding in front of recoil lug

Limbic
Not much response to my thread. Thank you for your help though. Much appreciated.

BRIT.
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Old 10-12-2010, 01:21 PM
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Re: Bedding in front of recoil lug

No problem. Both of my guns have heavy barrels. 7-8 lbs worth of barrel. I don't know if the gunsmiths always bed infront or of they did that because of the barrel weight.
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Old 10-14-2010, 10:02 PM
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Re: Bedding in front of recoil lug

Brit, I bed in front of the recoil lug about 1 - 1.5"as long as the straight shank of the barrel extends that far. On barrels that have shorter shanks, I never bed past the straight portion. Sometimes that may be 1/2" (or less), but I still do it. In the past, I have ground down the bedding that was in front of the recoil lug on a rifle that was not shooting well, but I never saw that improve accuracy. I have seen great shooting rifles bedded both ways. My theory is bed it while you're doing the bedding job, and if it doesn't shoot, you could start removing narrow bands of it from the front, and see if the rifle responds. Haven't actually ever done that myself, just a theory.

On 6mm BR, on the gunsmithing board, there is a post called "Torque values on Rem 700 short action" that describes indicating the barrel while tightening or loosening the action screws, looking for a stress-free bedding job. A couple of references are made to a stress-free bedding video by Gordy Gritters. I haven't seen it, but it could be worth checking out.

I'm sorry to admit that my limited knowledge of bedding has convinced me that the process is more art than science. I have observed though, that a good bedding job never made a rifle shoot worse.

Good luck, Tom
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Old 10-14-2010, 10:22 PM
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Re: Bedding in front of recoil lug

I used to bed everything for two inches forward of the recoil lug but after reading an article some where and I don't clearly recall who so I won't guess, I tried just bedding the recoil lug and then removing any material forward of it after the material dries.
The basic premise of the article was your action and barrel fit should be perfect and true and you are wanting to free float the barrel so why would you then add possible two inch pressure point right at the chamber. I have been very happy with a totally true free floated barrel and it is just that much less to bed so I have stopped bedding the barrel at all.
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Old 10-17-2010, 09:04 AM
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Re: Bedding in front of recoil lug

Quote:
Originally Posted by BRIT View Post
Hi Gents
When Bedding a Rem 700 or Rifle of similar footprint should the first portion of the barrel shank be Bedded in front of the recoil lug as part of the job?
I have seen photos of bedding where the barrel has been Bedded for the first inch or two and others where the barrel is left fully floating.
What are the factors involved in deciding to do this and what are the pros and cons please?

Many Thanks

BRIT
Bedding a rifle is not a cookie cutter process in my opinion. I look at the requirements/uses
of the rifle, the Type of action, barrel contour (Straight taper or contoured) and the weight
and length of the barrel to make the decision on the type of bedding.

If it is a heavy,long barrel I bed up to 1 " if it the shank is straight in front of the reciever.

If it is a short, light barrel then I only bed about 1/2" in front of the reciever.And as others
have said if it doesn't shoot well I can remove it back to the reciever without changing the
original bedding.

On some rifles that are bench/target type rifles that shoot rapid fire strings that heat up the
barrels I will try to full float the barrel for better cooling.

As far as bedding the recoil lug I like to lock it in with full bedding except for the bottom of the
lug, I clearance it .020 for heat growth.

The recoil lug is the anchor for the action and the action screws only hold it down so any
growth will be back and the screws will allow this without binding the action.

There are many different ways to bed a rifle and others have good luck with bedding
differently but this is what has worked best for me.

PS; On actions that the front action screw goes into the recoil lug (Weatherbys,Winchesters,
Mauser's etc) I 100% bed the recoil lug and float the action screws(I don't want them to
touch the pillars on the sides.

Just the way I do it.

J E CUSTOM
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Last edited by J E Custom; 10-17-2010 at 09:08 AM.
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