Originally Posted by j_unzicker
Yeah...that's what I did wrong. Upon closer look. What I thought was rub marks on the action at the pillars was my loc-tite pooled inbetween the action and the pillars. I think I followed the instructions for a "recess" pillar bed job. However, a lot of posts I have read on the Rem 700 have suggested a "flush" or even somewhat "floated" pillar bed job (where the action only sits on the pillars and does not touch the bedding. The thought is that pulling the action down on the bedding causes a stress point in the space between the action and the pillar. I was instructed to only slightly snug the pillars onto the action before inserting into the stock with the bedding material. It sounds like I should have really tighted them down onto the action so that they were making good contact.
Sand down some of the bedding to bring the pillars in full contact with the action, or remove some of the bedding and rebed?
I'm learning more than I ever wanted to on this job. lol.
What you want is a action, to pillar, to floor metal fit. Before bedding then when the bedding is
applied use just enough clamping to squeeze the excess bedding out allowing the action to contact the pillars.
I use spring clamps (They look like big jumper cable clamps) some use surgical tubing. this will give you a stress free bedding job. I use longer action screws with the heads turned down with 1 heat
shrink tubing for guides only. Do not use action screws to tighten action down in bedding.
The action screws will add flex/stress to the action.
When bedding has cured I remove the screws without removing the action and leave the clamps and action in the stock for 24 Hours before removing.
The main reason for having a stress free, metal to metal to metal bedding job is to be able to torque
to required In/lbs without any changes and no compression of stock materials (Any stock).
Bedding is actually a very simple job once you have a good trouble free method.
J E CUSTOM