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Action screw tightening sequence

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  #1  
Unread 01-31-2008, 12:17 AM
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Action screw tightening sequence

I've read the sequence for Savage actions a couple of times on this forum, but would like to know what order is best for Remingtons and also for Weatherbys and Mausers. I've been doing it the same way for years and don't know if there's something better. I tighten the front screw snug, then the back screw snug, then about 25-30 in/lbs on the front and then the rear, then 65 - 85 in/lbs on the front and then the same on the rear.

I get some weird groups occasionally, and wondered if the tightening sequence might be at fault.

Thanks, Tom
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  •   #2  
    Unread 01-31-2008, 01:20 AM
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    What I've done that has worked well:

    Prior to tightening anything, have the rifle in a vertical position, recoil pad towards the ground.

    Bring your screws up to where they are just starting to apply tension.

    One or two light taps on the pad to ensure the recoil lug is seated against the stock.

    Hand tighten until snug using a back and forth routine.

    Get out your torque wrench.

    Research and testing conducted by an engineer friend of mine who makes a very good living developing fasteners for the aerospace industry up in Washington State suggests that your guard screw may be a bit excessive.

    I personally don't exceed twenty inch pounds in any of my guns. They are all pillar bedded though. Stocks that aren't will more than likely require more fiddling with, though I feel that going as high as 80lbs is still a bit much. A 1/4-28 screw is only going to tolerate so much before the fastener begins to yield. It's not as hard as one might think it is to stretch a screw.

    If its a wood stock, I'd speculate that you are on the verge of crushing the wood a bit with the screws that tight.

    Hope this helped.

    C~
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      #3  
    Unread 01-31-2008, 04:26 PM
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    Thanks C, I'll try it.

    Tom
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      #4  
    Unread 01-31-2008, 08:57 PM
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    I do basicaly the same thing that Chad does with the gun standing on the butt , I snug up the front screw then the rear then torque the front and then rear , I only go about 45 inch pounds also.
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      #5  
    Unread 02-01-2008, 07:26 PM
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    Thanks to both of you. I will try standing them up and backing off on the torque. I started doing 65 in/lbs from the instructions with H S Precision stocks, and later from Accurate Innovations stocks. On hard kickers, I used 75 - 85 in/lbs after it improved groups on a very light .340 Wby. All these stocks have pillar blocks and aluminum chassis. Even so, it is quite possible that I'm stressing the receivers with that much torque. As far back as I can remember, I've done front/back, front/back. Sounds like that may be O.K.

    On edit: James, what did you decide to do with the Rem 700 with the tilted thread?

    Thanks again, Tom
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    Last edited by specweldtom; 02-01-2008 at 07:31 PM.
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      #6  
    Unread 02-02-2008, 09:49 AM
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    Tom , after a little cussing and some fussing I was able to get the threads straitend out , I had to take a bit out of it but the action walls from the peak of the thread to the OD of the action are still thicker than the Large ring Savage so I'm not to worried about having pressure problems and like I mentioned before the barrel is a CM and chambered for 30-06.
    I had the action marked on the bottom for the new correct thread size incase I end up selling it or sombody else down the road has to barrel it. I figured that it would e alot easier for sombody else to thread a barrel over sized than to try to cock their tool to match the crooked threads..

    I'm gonna make a thread about how everybody cuts theirs right now.
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      #7  
    Unread 02-02-2008, 04:18 PM
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    Glad you got it going. It reminded me that every time you think you've seen it all, someone manages to surprise you. Usually not a good surprise either.

    Thanks for catching us up, Tom
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