Re: 98 Mauser firing pin
Eric, the Carteach link is very well done, but I do not agree with the method for cutting back the cocking piece / firing pin sear. Removing 25 to 30 mils off the face of the cocking piece with a file wouldn't get the area directly under the cocking ram. It also wouldn't give you a perfectly flat, perpendicular face to strike the back of the shroud. (And would take forever. The cocking piece is very hard). To be done right I think you need to get the piece to a lathe (or milling machine) and cut the face with a carbide end mill. Now you will get it true, flat, and exactly the depth you want.
On edit: I JUST SNAPPED THAT THIS PIN IS BROKEN ANYWAY, SO YOU NEED A NEW PIN ANYHOW. DON'T CUT ON ANYTHING UNTIL YOU GET A PIN AND TRY IT.
I'm not familiar with the Turks, but some of the military, and commercial standard length firing pins don't take all of the cocking pieces, and won't let them rotate onto the pin. You need to match them up. The Tubb link might work, but military Mauser firing pins can still be found, maybe Numrich, Brownell's, or sometimes at gun shows. Firing pins should have a spherical tip, not the flattened tip seen in the Carteach link. Also watch out for Yugo firing pins, they are about 3/16" or so shorter than a std Mauser. A good firing pin will protrude closer to .062" than .055". Let down so that it protrudes from the bolt face, it will actually look too long, but can be measured accurately with a depth mike.
Great shooting old rifle worth spending a few $$$ on.
Good luck, Tom
Texas State Rifle Association Life Member
NRA Endowment Life Member
A big fast bullet will beat a little fast bullet every time
Last edited by specweldtom; 04-25-2010 at 08:55 PM.
Reason: BRAIN DAMAGE