Sooooooo I got the idea I wanted a light wieldly fast tracking squirrels worst nightmare gun. Decided I was building a 10/22 mini scout. Well it turned out to be like a mini soccom. So I ordered a utg quad rail for afew bucks more than the scout rail. Well due to weight I wanted to keep factory barrel. The quad rail replaces barrel band but has a piece that lays on top of barrel and the bottom bolts to clamping it all back together. Well I topped it with a leatherwood 2x7 scout scope on utg quick detach rings. Shot it with bulk Remington wasn't to thrilled at 50yrd I was gettin dead bullseye and then cut that hole but then. Id have a flyer. Then one nowhere near the other three. Like a 3" group. So I ordered up power custom hammer kit, volq extractor, power custom ext charge handle an auto bolt release with a Wilson shok buffer. Lose a trigger shim (I think the gnomes got it) so put together without it was lighter pull but still gritty so ordered more shims also knowing it nay hurt instead of help I floated barrel just to see. Well shot it almost same deal. Then I shot it with green tag and it was better but still over 2". Thoughts? I wonder if the scout rail since it doesn't clamp to barrel be more accurate?
For “real” accuracy, the factory chamber more often than not just plain sucks. It will accept any ammo because it’s so lose in ID and length everybody will flop right in but not necessarily aligned centered with the bore and nowhere near in contact with the rifling.
Most buy aftermarket barrels with a Bentz chamber or a chamber very similar that’s for the semi-auto a Match chamber. They are “tighter” so when a round is chambered it’s nearer centered with the bore and usually with the bullet engaged by several thousandths into the rifling.
A talented “10/22 smith” will trim a bit off the breach end of a factory Ruger barrel, ream a new business end for the chamber, tidy up the extractor cut, make a spacer to fit in with the v-block to account for the amount trimmed, and re-crown the barrel while they have it. These re-worked barrels shoot right in there with all but maybe the very best of aftermarket bulls and for a lot less bucks.
Check out the Rimfire Central 10/22 forums if these critters interest you, but hide your wallet from yourself.
I’ve got one Green Mountain and two Kidd barrels on the ones up and running so far but I’m still not “done”. They will do around ½” at 50 yards from a rest, less with better standard velocity ammo but only a little worse with CCI Mini-Mag and Velocitor or other good HV stuff. Punching holes in paper gets boring after awhile so lately I’ve been arching them out ~240 yards from a bipod on my last outing easily dinging a 10” gong after I walked it in. There was no wind to fight that time or I’d have to remove that “easily”.
Randy (CPC) did two bolts. David (brimstone) finished off a “hybrid” trigger. My Kidd tab has passed 2K for 2012. The only Ruger components left are two receivers, the reworked bolts, and a hand full of trigger incidentals. The hybrid trigger pull is 2.25 pounds and the Kidd’s are 1.5 pounds. One is a Volquartsen TG2000 that once I melted the Loctite for adjustments feels much the same with barely any movement before they drop the hammer. These critters are very much addictive and will breed acts of fiscal irresponsibility.
35 for bolt work for a 10/17, and I am between Brimstone and nemohunter for a trigger job, looking at 70 to 75 there.
Wanna do a bullup subsonic .22, so unless dad wants to donate a gun to it, I will need a gun $200, trigger $30-infinity, stock $300+shipping, and barrel $100-infinity.