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Muzzleloader Hunting Techniques For Muzzleloader Hunting


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338 yards

 
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  #8  
Old 12-24-2007, 09:36 PM
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That is tremendeous! I assume that you omega is a 45 caliber since you use a 200 grain bullet?
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  #9  
Old 12-24-2007, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roll-Yur-Own View Post
That is tremendeous! I assume that you omega is a 45 caliber since you use a 200 grain bullet?
Nope, they sell the 200gr bullets with both .45 and .50 cal sabots. Mine is a .50.
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  #10  
Old 12-24-2007, 10:19 PM
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ATH,

I've been shooting an Omega for a couple years and have been meaning to bed the action.

Reading your story lit my fire and I inletted and bedded the action today. I've been wanting to try the DevCon Steel bed putty that everyone is so pleased with and the Omega was my excuse.

It turned out really good.

When I bedded the action, I filled the ramrod channel with clay and then bedded right over the top of it. I thought about just bedding the sides, but decided to bridge over the channel. How did you do yours?

Merry Christmas, and thanks again for helping me get that action bedded ;-)

AJ

ps:I'm less than 2 hours north of you in Lapeer.
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  #11  
Old 12-25-2007, 06:23 PM
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Hi AJ,
I did the same as you....but the bedding between the barrel and clay in the channel ended up so thin that as I tried to get the clay reamed out it broke out just over the barrel channel. This turned out to be a good thing, as it would have been a pain to get that clay out without that space and it isn't vital to the stability of the job anyways. If you need to in order to get the clay out, I recommend removing some at the bottom of the ramrod channel to allow you to dig the clay out as you push it down.

I put aluminum pillars in prior to bedding, I was very happy with the overall job, very solid and tight.
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Old 12-25-2007, 06:45 PM
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I left the clay about 1/8" below the bedding line, so I ended up with almost 1/4" of steel bed over the channel.

It was easy removing the clay. I pushed an all thread through the clay a couple times and then using the largest bronze brush I had, I used a cleaning rod and pushed/pulled a couple dozen times and the clay was removed (all over the floor!).

Its very solid, I only bedded between the action holes. Everything else forward and backward is free floating. The only thing I don't like is, the screws aren't super solid because of the give in the stock under the head of the screws. I think a couple escutcheon's that spread the load a bit would help. Maybe I'll remove the laminate from the screw hole up to the bottom of the bedding and fill with steel bed. Then redrill the hole, so I've essentially removed any compressible material and made pillars from steel bed. ??

AJ
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  #13  
Old 12-26-2007, 12:06 PM
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The best way would be the aluminum pillars, but the way you describe will work too. If you want to use alumunum pillars, just drill the holes to the size of the pillars, coat them in epoxy tape the action tight into the stock, and screw the pillars tight to the lugs. When everything dries you should have a solid, solid setup.

I need to change my profile, I'm in central Indiana now otherwise I'd show you how mine turned out.

I'm impressed you got such a thick layer of bedding in there between the rod and the barrel. There didn't appear to be enough room for it with mine, and I was afraid if I didn't leave the channel big enough I'd have to drill it out to get my ramrod in.
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  #14  
Old 12-26-2007, 12:12 PM
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I made some pillars from some aluminum arrow inserts. Drilled them out/cut to size, mounted them to the barrel with small headed bolts (wrapped the bolts with tape to make sure they where centered in the pillars), drilled out the holes in the stock, coated the pillars with steel bed, clamped everything solid and voila. When its together, you can't even tell they are there.

Take care,
AJ
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