Location: Inukjuak, Canadian Eastern Arctic 59 parallel
I was in the same situation of which to choose between the two. For a long time I wanted the 22-250, but got the .223 instead for all the reasons mentioned. I've got a Tikka with a 1:8" twist and am doing sub moa past 500 yrds so far. Right now I'm using American Eagle cause it's super cheap to hone my accuracy and ballistic tip for hunting and they both have almost identical specks, so I don't have to re-zero. After two weeks with it I've gone through 120 rounds. Can't wait to get out again.
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To Go Where No Man Has Gone Before.
I have a long range precision varmiter in .223 cal. Long shots aren't a problem,I use Sierra 69gr. Sierra HPBT-Match bullets. The gun is a great shooter. I haven't got to really strech it out yet,but have no doubt it will perform well at 500,and farther. It's not how fast you get there,but hitting what you are shooting at. A good range finder,and practice,will have you hitting targets farther out than you think! At 500yds,the 69gr. bullet still has 427fpe. more than enough to ruin a P-Dog's day!
i have read several articles . they will really shoot i have shot against .223 at 500 yards. the 22-250 gives you quite an advantage if therre is any wind at all . i would get the 22-250 . you don't say where you are excatly what you are going to shoot. but components/ammo for the 22- 250 are not that hard to find.
If the higher velocity (and higher barrel heat, sooner) of the .22-250 is the cause of shorter barrel life, how about reducing the powder charge? This might drastically affect accuracy, don't know, never tried it. And it defeats the reason for having a .22-250. But for those of us who have a .22-250, it might be something to look into. Might have to experiment with slower burning powders that take up more room in the case.
Also, has anyone determined at what barrel temperature you should stop shooting and let the barrel cool down? Wondering if anyone makes a digital thermometer where the sensor is attached to the barrel? This way one could accurately monitor the barrel temperature without constantly grabbing onto the barrel.
I have ordered a Savage Long Range Precision Varminter in .22-250 with the 1-9" twist barrel and I want it to last a long time. So anything I can do to extend that time is a plus.
Generally speaking, cartidges perform best when filled full of powder. ALso, the larger case capacity of the 250 will require more powder to match similar velocities that the 223 will obtain -- so simply putting a 24 gr charge (what a 223 would take) in a 22-250 will not produce the same velocities that a 223 will get. So the short answer is that a 22-250 will burn a barrel faster than a 223.
As far as the heat of the barrel, it is best (unpractical but best) to always shoot a cool barrel. But My rule of thum is that I let my hunting rifle cool after 3 shots. Just getting into the varmint thing but I think I will shoot strings of 10 to 15 - non rapid and make sure the barrel doesnt get more than warm to the toutch. Just my .02
I used to re-load but now I "hand-load".
-- Well, at least I try --
The cost of ammo from the store and reloading cheaper for the 223.
Barrel life is much better in 223 than the 22-250, but a few thousand rounds.
the 223 will shoot past 500 or 600 yards with not problem and the 22-250 is about 300fps faster than yet barrel life may still be an issue...Most rifles will shoot an inch now days.
Shooting any rifle at any distance is a great day...as well as priceless.
Have owned both 223 and the 22-250 still own 223's my $.02
Its like whats better on deer a 3030 or 35 what about 3006 or 270?
the .22-250 is a killer and it will reach out and touch just like the .223, both are great varmint calibres. Than there is the .243 and now 260 Remi will you be doing any deer hunting? I have a .223 and like it. I shot one chuck at 500yards and quit a few just under around 470 to 475. Its the wind the scope the barrel the hand load and the shooter.