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Your reloading process. The long version.

 
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  #8  
Old 03-24-2005, 01:11 PM
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Re: Your reloading process. The long version.

Most BR shooters clean there brass between reloads at the range using a product that is a treated wool like material, many use a neck brush on the inside of the necks, some use these on a cordless screw driver. Normally at the end of the match I throw my brass in the trash can, start with new prepped case for the next match. These cases will have a lot of reloads on them by the end of the match day. I've heard the same thing about the rouge in the polish media. I don't know. Most barrels (the really good ones) don't really loose accuracy as they wear. They just get harder to get clean before the next relay (that is your turn to shoot again) remember you have to get your ammo ready also for your next relay. The barrels that some shooters refer to as hummer barrels are a great example of this problem, once you hit over 2000 to 2500 rds in the PPC or 6BR there going to take to much time to get them clean enough to shoot before you run out of time. Competitive shooters are not looking for that once in a while small group, they are looking at how the barrel aggs for 5 five shot targets. Back to your other question about sizing your .308 brass. Try this, decap the cases in a separate die without any expander ball. Remove the rod from your sizer die and size your brass. Use a separate neck expander die to bring the necks back to size. Pain in the fanny huh ? remember those off the shelf dies are a mine fields of trouble. What your sizer die is doing is bring the neck down to small in size then dragging the neck back over the expander ball to get it to the correct size to hold the bullet. This is the manufacturer solution to the mass market of SAMMI spec rifle chambers, brass makers, bullet makers products. If you have a barrel that really shoots no BS groups, and don't have dies as I mentioned in the other post, well it's time to do a chamber cast with cerriosafe and get a die cut to size for your chamber. There are a few guys out there that can do this for you or you can ( for a small fee) have the sizer die you have now bored out to taker sizing rings. There is a fellow in PS mag that advertises that service. This is a good way to go. Now you can control the neck tension on your bullets, this is a great leap forward for you with this kind of control. I have left the seating die out of all this because it really doesn't matter until the brass is right. Necks straight, case mouths properly chamfered, brass you know is straight (not banana shaped) What all this is leading up to, is good measuring tools. You need a good case mic ie. tubing mic or a better way is a case spinner. Someway to measure the thickness of the case mouths. A side benefit is being able to tell if the case heads are square. They will allow you to check for runnout on the seated bullets also. The one I use is the NECO. That does not mean there are not others as good or better out their. What this does mean is without a way to check, you don't have a clue what your loads are really like, or where your problems with dies, components or press lie. ( By the way if you are wondering about that expander ball, it is a short road to crooked necks. Remember that funny drag and feeling you had when pulling the case out of the die? That sound is the got you sound the die just made telling you it made a crooked neck.) Back to the seating die! OK, "STRAIGHT LINE SEATING" ie. WILSON. Look at Wilson's drawing of there seating die and one picture is worth a thousand words. Well 4Ked Horn I've got to get back down to the shop as the boss has been throwing nasty looks my way, "WOMEN" ! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
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  #9  
Old 03-24-2005, 02:31 PM
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Re: Your reloading process. The long version.

4Ked,
I just take of the snags, all im after is a square edge around the hole. Its worth noting that chamfering the hole does nothing to cause pressure indicators in my experence, but enlarging flash hole diameter does. Its also worth noting that even this does not actually change the pressure, but only increases the apparent pressure due to the primer seeing a larger surface area of the same pressure.

Whoops, I missed primer pocket uniforming, with a good tool (as was said), you can clean the primer pockets with the same tool, since after cutting the depth, carbon is taller, and gets cut on successive loadings just like brass in the initial loading.
As for neck thickness, both. I will cull cases if they have more than .001 variation on a single case, or if they are consistantly within .001, but markedly thicker, or thinner.
I set up my loading block and go through it just as if I was laoding them, left to right, top to bottom, and write on a sheet of paper what the max thickess is. Then after I have done 50 pieces, go back and look at what the most common thickness is, and cull the extremes. With my favored 300WM LR rig, I use only Federal brass, and it is very consistant. Out of 100 pieces, I rarely cull more than 2. After im out, ill likley go to Lapua... well see....

As to your expander question,
1. How are you lubing your cases?
2. How are you lubing the case necks (inside)?
3. How many finings?
4. What dies are you using?
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  #10  
Old 03-24-2005, 03:24 PM
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Re: Your reloading process. The long version.

Question on primer seating depth:I use the sinclare primer seating tool to seat the primer after I have uniformed the primer pocket and deburred the flashhole.The Forester catalogue says to seat the primer .004" deep.My primers are .010" deep after the above.I have the tool depth setting adjusted so that I can feel the primer bottom out(not forced,but a firm seating).I have never had any problems,excellent accuracy,low ES and SD.AmI doing anything wrong?On subsiquent loadings I use the Sinclare primer pocket uniformer with an electrical screwdriver to clean and reuniform the primer pocket.I am wondering if I am making the p.pocket deeper when this is performed?Thoughts?
Thanks,
Jimmy
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  #11  
Old 03-24-2005, 04:16 PM
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Re: Your reloading process. The long version.

Let's look at what is going on with the case durning firing to answer that question. The loaded round upon firing is expanding and moving in all directions within the freedom of the chamber and the breech seal ( bolt, breech block) alow. At the time this obdurating is going on the obstruction in the bore is moving away from the ctg. case and moving down the bore, the pressure is steady even though the fluid mass has been ejected in to the bore, pressure is still at work causing some setback that is felt on the web of the case head that is against the breech block. This can be measured as case head expansion. Well this set back in the primer pocket is what you are removing using your primer pocket uniformer. You are doing the correct thing because you are making the depth consistent for the primer. By seating the primers to just touch the anvil and not crushing the pellet, you've given the ctg the best you can help in the ignition department. Setting-up your pocket uniformer tool is a matter of just making a clean-up cut after the first firing (no deeper)this setting will remain the same for all other reloads for these cases. You will notice that sometimes you seem to cut more than others as you progress through out the life of the case. Never fear this is quit normal. I don't see where you can be going wrong, unless it would be on the set-up for the first reload by over cutting the pockets to deep. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
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  #12  
Old 03-24-2005, 05:15 PM
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Re: Your reloading process. The long version.

3SixBits,
Thanks for the info.I assume that I am going about the primer seating properly,even though they are seated deeper than Forster states.No, I do not uniform the pockets any deeper on new brass,just square them up.Thank you very much for your response!
Jim [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
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  #13  
Old 03-24-2005, 05:34 PM
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Re: Your reloading process. The long version.

Jimmy, I do not touch the primer pocket with the reamer until the case has been fire-formed, and the set back has occurred the first time. This is when I set the cutter for the clean-up cut. You only want to remove one full cut that cleans up the whole bottom of the pocket. Sorry if I didn't make that clear in the last post. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]
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  #14  
Old 03-24-2005, 10:24 PM
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Re: Your reloading process. The long version.

[ QUOTE ]
As to your expander question,
1. How are you lubing your cases? <font color="red"> RCBS liquid case lube on a lube pad. Not too much, just enough for smooth FL sizing. No lube on case neck inside or out. </font>

2. How are you lubing the case necks (inside)? <font color="red"> I clean the cases by tumbling with corn cob and midway brass polish then I run a plastic nech brush in and out on a RCBS motorized case prep station. I clean the dies every once in a while.</font>

3. How many finings? <font color="red"> I don't know what finings are. If you meant sizings well I dont know exactly but it can be anywhere from 2 to 6 </font>

4. What dies are you using? <font color="red"> The same ones I owned before I learned about the brand actually mattering. Any guess? RCBS. </font>

[/ QUOTE ]
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