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What else can I do to get this brass to chamber ?

 
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Old 07-13-2008, 01:08 PM
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What else can I do to get this brass to chamber ?

I have a 300 WBY I built on a Mark V action, Pac-Nor 5/5 .925 25.5 in. Rifles shoot very well. My Dad has 2, 300 WBY factory rifles that he has shot through out the years. He does not do much reloading so he gave me around 250 pieces of brass he had collected over the last 30 years. I FL sized, neck turned, trimmed, etc and have been using them.

I have noticed some of the brass has swelled enough that I can not get it to chamber in my rifle without some, to a lot of pressure to close the bolt. I honestly do not know if the brass has expanded as I used it, or if it came that way. None the less when I identify a piece of brass that will not chamber easily I have tried every thing to get it to fit. FL sized, neck sized, body sized with the most aggressive shoulder set back shell holder that comes with the body dies kit. I have measured the area right in front of the belt and that is not the problem. Brass with a measurement of .519 will sometimes chamber easily and on another piece of brass will not ?

Could my problem be that some of this brass was originally fired in a factory chamber ? I would think that FL sizing would bring the brass back to below factory specs anyway ??

The only thing I can think of is the should needs set back even further ?

John
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:06 PM
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Have you checked for length of brass. It may have grown a little and needs trimming. Ypu may also need to anneal the neck and shoulder carefully to make sure brass is actually setting shoulder back. It may have case hardened and is springing back after FL sizing?
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HRstretch View Post
Have you checked for length of brass. It may have grown a little and needs trimming. Ypu may also need to anneal the neck and shoulder carefully to make sure brass is actually setting shoulder back. It may have case hardened and is springing back after FL sizing?
It is trimmed, may need annealed. That is the one thing I can think of I have not done.
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:34 PM
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Go read this thread. While I do not personally agree with 100% of everything Larry Willis says, that doesn't make me right and him wrong. Most of the stuff he says I agree with.

FLS belted magnums
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:44 PM
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I had a 257Wby in a mark V and had 60 pieces of brass once fired when I sold it and had Hart rebarrel a 700 in 257WBY. Out of the 60 pieces I was able to use 17. The problem was the belted area on the brass. The factory Wby had a deeper recess for the belt. I know a belted mag headspaces off the belt but since then I have ran in to this a couple times. I took 2 cases that you could not close no matter how hard you tried and chucked them in a lathe and removed .002 from the front side of the belt until it closed. One took one try removing .002 the second needed .004. In theory belted mags should be the same unless chambered with a reamer made to headspace off the shoulder. If you want to see if this is your problem find one that is tight or won't close and cut it off .250 or so in front of the belt and try to chamber it.
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Old 07-13-2008, 04:51 PM
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"Paint" a too-tight case with a dark color "dry erase" type of felt tip marker. Carefully chamber and extract it, inspect it to see where you have rub contact completly around the case to find the tight spot. From that you should be able to figure out how to correct it.

My bet is that the shoulder isn't set back quite enough.
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Old 07-13-2008, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boomtube View Post
"Paint" a too-tight case with a dark color "dry erase" type of felt tip marker. Carefully chamber and extract it, inspect it to see where you have rub contact completly around the case to find the tight spot. From that you should be able to figure out how to correct it.

My bet is that the shoulder isn't set back quite enough.
Yup, that was it.
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