Re: What is the difference between Norma and Lapua 338 Lapua Magnum brass?
This is my first post here, I just found this website and really like it.
I'll add my own experience with Norma brass -
I've got a 378 Weatherby (Mark V) that I used to shoot / reload for (I dont shoot it anymore, I just got tired of it to be honest, so I dont reload for it anymore. Need to sell it one of these days)
All of the 378 Weatherby brass I've ever seen came from Norma (does anyone know another source??!)
Anyway, I've shot / reloaded for a number of different high power rifle rounds, and with the .378, it ALWAYS seemed like high pressure signs came way early. As it, a grain or two down from what the reloading manuals max loads gave pressure signs like I'd get with a grain or two ABOVE max for most other calibers (.300 win mag, 338 Rem Ultramag, 7mm Rem mag, etc)
One of the signs I'd see first is brass flowback into the ejector hole - y'know the bright shiny little circle on the headface
My buddy has a 338/378 weatherby (on a P17 enfield action, Hart barrel) that I picked up for a good deal and later sold to him. He gets the same results. Max loads look OVER max
Anyways, years after I started seeing this, I read that Norma INTENTIONALLY makes their brass soft - one opinion on that was that they (Norma) figured that if the brass showed small pressure signals at max loads, then reloaders would know exactly where that limit was and would not go over it
I have no idea if that is WHY they do it, but Norma brass sure is soft on the head. Its a real pain too, it is disconcerting to see pressure signs, and it also makes the brass wear out quicker (which sucks even more since some of these calibers have pretty expensive brass!!)
PS. I had a 338 Lapua (Blaser LRS) for a short time and reloaded it with both Lapua and Norma brass. From what I recall, the Norma brass exhibited the same behavior with that round....