Had some trouble resizing some 308 brass today.
I have Redding dies so I know they're quality.
I broke two decapping pins on some of the brass.
Not to mention it was difficult to resize.
The casings I had trouble with were:
Match LC 66
Match LC 67
Do you know do these casings take a special resizer?
Or are they just tough to do?
Any help is appriciated.
Where did the brass come from ? If it was fired from a MG it would be a little "large" since reliability is more important than accuracy.
Decapping pins I can't help you with. I never use a FL die to do decapping, I use my Lee collet neck sizing die for that but stop before it shrinks the neck. The pin in that die is full length the same size as the caliber, except for the decapping insert, whereas the stem on a FL die is only about 1/8" in diameter so not nearly as robust. I have seen some flash holes that were way out of position on some brass too, that could be another problem. However, if you use a lee collet die, you are not doing any other sizing operation, just decapping and no lube needed so the process is quite sensitive and you can easily tell by the resistance that something is out of whack.
Next question is what you use for lube when FL sizing ? I personally use a blue marine grease that is the same as what I use on all the pins of my backhoe. I smear a very small amount on my left hand and then transfer a tiny bit to the cartridge by wiping it in that hand. Every 10th case or so I will use an ear bud to put a bit into a case neck to keep the expander ball lubed too. I have tried the spray lubricants but in my opinion it does not compare at all to a "real" lubricant.
I just did 500 cases (decapping, FL sizing and later collet neck sizing) and it took me a few hours a night over about 4 days. That was in addition to multiple wash/tumble/dry cycles which actually took the majority of the time.
I use RCBS Decapping & Depriming dies. There are 2....One is .22-25 caliber, the other is .27-.45 caliber. They work great.
Also, you mentioned Lake City (LC) brass....Those could be boxer primed and be crimped on 4 sides of the primer. In which case you will need to be swaging the primer pockets before you insert another primer in them...Once you get the old one out.
Most of the time, with surplus brass, if I have a stubborn primer, or it breaks a decapping needle, I just chunk it, or throw it in my misc. brass bag that I sell for scrap prices.
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Originally Posted by WildRose
The 284 is to the STW what a tricycle is to a Ninja.
The LC brass I just worked through had a ring crimp (full 360). Some were tighter than others. Some just held on like blazes, but I got all of them out no fuss. I do believe that it helps having the biggest stem on the decapping tool possible, in the case of the 308 collet die that is just under the bullet diameter. A "universal" decapping die must by necessity have a skinny stem so it can work on the smaller calibers.
If I recall the lee die is about $30. Oops, apparently $21 at Midway
I got checking that brass and you guys are right. It either is crimped or there is no centered flash hole but rather some little holes on either side where the flash hole should be.
Well what I'm going to do is chuck that brass for scrap brass like one of you suggested. I don't have much of it and I do have a lot of the good stuff.
Thanks for the imput. I learned something today.
Little heads up, thats Berdan primed. You can remove them with the proper decapping tool but they must be Berdan reprimed. That style is usually found on foreign made brass, not domestic.
I don't have any resizing die sets that have the decapping pins inserted. Thats the first thing that comes out when I get a new set.
I use both the RCBS and Lyman Universal decapping dies depending on which one I pick up (in the same box).
Westcliffe.... The pins on my loaders get Lubrication Engineers teflon fortified synthetic GL 8 grease.
My brass all gets Hornady One Shot. Never had issue one. Actually, One-Shot and commercial die release compound are very similar, basically an EP lubricant in a light solvent carrier.
I'd be real concerned, using any substantive grease to lubricate a bottleneck case in a FL die because in a FL die, the bottleneck itself forms a wedge seal (as it's reformed) in the die body, hence the relief hole in the die itself. Block that hole and you wind up with dented shoulders on a bottle neck case.
I want the least viscous lubricant possible and as little as possible at all times.
'It's not about me, it's about we'..........
one shot is exactly what I use. I found years ago at a gun show.I would never use a greese because I used a liquid lubricant before and it dented my casings.Usually if I have trouble with any cases I just toss them because it's not worth the effort to use them.