Savage 111 LRH 6.5-284 Loading Questions

BrentM · #29 02-04-2013, 09:14 AM

Yeah all the bad hype is from BR shooters hopping the loads up, strings of fire, etc. A hunter will likely see well into the 2000 mark by keeping pressures low and firing on cool barrels.

I am not sure about the throat issue. I never measure my bullet tip to case base, pointless to me. My ogive to case base on a contact to the lands is 2.582 for a berger 140 vld hunting. From there I just back out to .075 off or 2.507. Amax's and SMK's are a little different but fairly close. However, their tip to ogive is quite a but different.

Sargesniper · #30 02-04-2013, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShootnMathews

I appreciate the help. Don't believe I'll ever wear the barrel out. I'm figuring could be as many as 300 shots to get it shooting the way I want and lined up. And I'll shoot it some for fun. Probably 50 rounds a year. At that rate it should last a pretty good while. When its burned out ill probably just by a whole new gun cuz it'll prob be beat up from years of use. We hunt a lot here with not a lot of shooting. Eastern totes are hard to call so maybe 10 yote shots a year. 5 deer. 40-50 fun shooting. That's many years of use to hit 1000 rounds.

One other thing on the 6.5x284. When cleaning it,make SURE you clean that stubborn carbon ring just ahead of the chamber. That is believed to be the worst enemy. Carbon build up in this area will accelerate throat erosion no matter how low your pressures are. Good luck and shoot bug holes. ...........SEMPER FI!

BrentM · #31 02-04-2013, 03:42 PM

Good info. How do you identify if you have an issue? I look inside best I can, feel for a sticky or drag area, and ensure I have no color on my patches. Is there a better way? I use wipe out, accelerator, and cr 10.

Sargesniper · #32 02-04-2013, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrentM

Good info. How do you identify if you have an issue? I look inside best I can, feel for a sticky or drag area, and ensure I have no color on my patches. Is there a better way? I use wipe out, accelerator, and cr 10.

To find it you run a cleaning rod through and out past the muzzle. Then screw on a new nylon brush. Slowly pull back without stopping until you feel resistance. It usually occurs anywhere from 6" away from the end of the chamber to right at the start of the rifling. lloso paste is very good at removing it. Hope this helps you. ........SEMPER FI!

ShootnMathews · #33 02-05-2013, 01:39 PM

Been doing a lot of research trying to find out if I should freefloat my LRH barrel or not. As several people have mentioned, my forearm touched right at the end. Appeared to be purposely touching. I have not shot it yet. The weather has been too bad. But I have found a lot about others having to freefloat the barrel to get consistent accuracy. Which makes sense to me. All of my good shooting guns I have floated. So I floated this one too. Suppose to be 50 here Thursday. Hoping to shoot these test loads.

Greyfox · #34 02-05-2013, 01:43 PM

I would absolutely free float the LRH.

BrentM · #35 02-05-2013, 01:47 PM

I agree with Greyfox. Why would you not? For example, I don't think, perhaps I am wrong, there is a long range rifle made anywhere today that has a contact point stock. Free floating, especially a lighter contour barrel is ideal. First thing I did with my new rifle was to ensure no contact on that barrel anywhere. Fortunately this rifle was well made and there is ample and consistent room around the barrel at all points. Nicely done savage.