Savage 111 LRH 6.5-284 Loading Questions

[BrentM]

Yeah, drill or buy. I would rather just buy one that uses the ogive. Where do you suggest I look for a RCBS stem for these pointy shiny objects?

[Greyfox]

Originally Posted by Sargesniper

Very well done Greyfox, i wonder if Retumbo would work in a .260 as well? Gives me something to think about. Though i can't complain about what i am currently loading. Alwaws looking for a better mouse trap. I am never satisfied with any group i shoot. Always think it could be better. That's just me though. Anyway, keep shooting bug holes.................. SEMPER FI!

Thanks Sarge, I never tried Retumbo in my 260. I use 45gr of H4831sc with 142 SMK's for my target shooting. 300 yard egg shoots. Does very well in my Savage LRP.

[Sargesniper]

Originally Posted by BrentM

I understand what you are getting at it but I am not having seating depth issue's. The comments are related to the angle in which the bullet is seating in the neck. I am thinking I might machine a tip hole in the die plunger and that might help with initial alignment. It's no big deal, I just use the concentricity guage and straighten them out to .001 or less and am good to go for now. It doesn't take much time at all and I know they are dead on after I am done.

Sorry, did not know you were talking about runout. My comp. dies leave no runout . I still believe a good polishing is in order for all brand dies ,no matter the price paid. Sorry about my confusion. ..SEMPER FI!

[Sargesniper]

Originally Posted by Greyfox

Thanks Sarge, I never tried Retumbo in my 260. I use 45gr of H4831sc with 142 SMK's for my target shooting. 300 yard egg shoots. Does very well in my Savage LRP.

Yes, mine does well with 46.3 gr. H-4831 and a 139 gr. Lapua Scenar. Good shooting to you. ....SEMPER FI!

[Nimrodmar10]

Originally Posted by BrentM

Yeah, drill or buy. I would rather just buy one that uses the ogive. Where do you suggest I look for a RCBS stem for these pointy shiny objects?

Brent
I think I remember you saying you are using the RCBS Gold Medal Dies. I think that is the same dies I have. That's actually a great set of dies. Screw the Micrometer seater stem out of the die. Take the VLD bullet you're using ant insert it into the stem. Put pressure on the bullet and spin it a few times. Inspect the bullet to see if there is a scratched ring somewhere on the taper of the nose. If you have a ring, that is where the seating stem is contacting the bullet. If there is no ring, take a small wire or pin and measure the depth of the hole in the end of the seating stem. I think you'll see that the depth is greater than the distance the bullet nose goes into the sweater plug.

Another good thing about that seater die, is that you can change it to any other caliber seater that you need. The body of the die is universal. You can order seater plugs ($8.98) and bullet guides ($12.98) for any caliber from Huntington Die Specialties (Huntingtons.com). For shorter calibers you may also order an extended shell holder to go with the seater.

If all else fails, you can chuck a bullet in a drill, coat it with grinding compound, and custom fit your seating stem to the bullet.
Martin

[ShootnMathews]

This may be a dumb question but I'm new to the redding s-bushing dies. Just got mine out of the mail and the instructions didn't specify if the writing on the bushing faced up or down or didn't matter. So which way does it go? Also do I leave the expander ball on or replace it with the small recapping rod tip?

[Nimrodmar10]

Originally Posted by ShootnMathews

This may be a dumb question but I'm new to the redding s-bushing dies. Just got mine out of the mail and the instructions didn't specify if the writing on the bushing faced up or down or didn't matter. So which way does it go? Also do I leave the expander ball on or replace it with the small recapping rod tip?

The writing on the bushing goes up. The expander ball usually stays on the decapping pin unless you're using the die for decapping without sizing.