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Reloading suggestions for .338 Lapua

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  #22  
Unread 04-19-2012, 08:17 PM
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Re: Reloading suggestions for .338 Lapua

Green 788...
Well I guess I can't argue with you at all on the full length dies... Afterall I am using full length bushing dies ....

Oh finally read your info on OCW... Very, very informative! No more ladders for me! Looks like I may be spending a bit of time checking some of my pet loads with your technique!

Orch
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  •   #23  
    Unread 04-19-2012, 09:23 PM
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    Re: Reloading suggestions for .338 Lapua

    Interesting thread. I like to take in the knowledge of others. It makes traveling down the reloading road, much less bumpy.....

    I have to pose a question, not on projectiles or propellant but brass.

    Any preferences regarding 338 LM brass? I know Lapua is over the top expensive but there are other manufacturers. Personal preferences and why would be appreciated.

    Candidly, I had some issues with PPU factory rounds and hard primers but I do have 100 so it's 100 empty cases at some point.

    As always I appreciate and will heed any suggestions.
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      #24  
    Unread 04-19-2012, 09:24 PM
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    Re: Reloading suggestions for .338 Lapua

    10-4... thanks, let me know if you have any questions or problems...

    Dan
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      #25  
    Unread 04-20-2012, 02:47 PM
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    Re: Reloading suggestions for .338 Lapua

    Per Brass; I have tried pretty much them all. Stick with Lapua. They're more expensive but last 2 x as long. I probably have 7 reloadings on mine.

    Per Dies; get a full length and neck sizer die. RCBS makes them both. If you really want to get crazy go Redding but make sure you get the shoulder die.
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      #26  
    Unread 04-20-2012, 10:30 PM
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    Re: Reloading suggestions for .338 Lapua

    I have a couple rookie questions here on reloading 338. I have just ran out of my Sierra MK 250 gr. After reading this thread and seeing the results of the 300 gr SMK, I think I am leaving the 250s for good and going to buy some 300gr. and Retumbo.

    My questions are these:

    Would it be a waste of time/money going through the OCW program for the 300 gr when so many different shooters and rifles swear by 89gr of Retumbo? I would still plan on doing a very small increment ladder with 89 gr.

    I recently neck sized my brass after shooting the 250 gr SMK out of it. Should I full length size them before shooting the 300 gr? I dont see why I should, but thought I would double check.

    I assume the OAL will still be the same for the 300 gr bullet? I am having difficulty settling on one.

    Rifle is a Savage 111 LRH with 9" twist and 26 inch barrel.
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      #27  
    Unread 04-20-2012, 11:49 PM
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    Re: Reloading suggestions for .338 Lapua

    Hey there...

    Well i would say try the OCW work up on the 300's and retumbo... However I can't say I'd blame you for doing a quick ladder up to the 89 gr load to just verify you don't run into pressure signs before 89 then run a couple five shot groups to test it out

    As far as oal that depends on how long a lead the throat has... Can't Imagine your savage can be too different then mine... I use 3.702 oal ( I think that leaves me about 20 thou off the lands). If you start low and work your way up, even if my oal is putting u in the lands and I increasing your pressure compared to my gun you should be in the safe zone at low powder weights.

    Should be good to go with the necksized brass, no need to full length size just cause you are changing bullets... Brass movement results from the pressure of expanding gas from powder ignition... 60,000 psi pushing a 250gr bullet should affect your brass no different then 60,000 psi pushing a 300 gr bullet...
    Keep in mind you will have to eventually full length size that brass further down the road after a number of reload cycles weather you keep loading the 250gr's or switch to the 300's regardless...

    Orch
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      #28  
    Unread 04-21-2012, 09:33 PM
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    Re: Reloading suggestions for .338 Lapua

    So today at the range didn't go so well. I loaded some hornady 225 gr sst last nite using my new RCBS neck sizing die. Instructions were identical to adjusting full sizing dies. However the brass wouldn't hardly eject after firing. A couple didn't. I've shot the load before in the rifle with good results and was just tinkering with the charge by small increments. OAL was the same as well. Only the neck sizing differed. Granted the brass may have shot 250 gr before hand, but was fired from the same chamber. Anyone have ideas?

    I also noticed something bad while waiting on my barrel to cool. While practicing my breathing and trigger control, I noticed that each time my pin hit the crosshairs moved. Turns out the base is loose!!! It's not possible to notice this while igniting so much powder. The entire rifle shakes. But I noticed it today. So basically all of my load work doesn't mean much anymore. Guess its ok since I'm switching to 250 gr but still!! I usually mount my own scopes but this time I had a gun smith do it. He's been great until now.
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