Well I am on the Lapua brass wagon now.
Just received the 50 rounds I ordered. I still have Hornady brass, but figured I would give these a try.
The more I read, the more I have questions. Not a good sign.
. I understand the basic steps in brass preparation, but I wanted to run my questions by you guys before I lay my hands on the lapua brass.
I usually FL resize new brass before loading it to keep everything consistent.
When shooting the Hornady brass, I ALWAYS trimmed after every firing since it was over 2.714". Should I expect the same with Lapua?
Are there any disadvantages of neck sizing after the first firing in my rifle? I tried neck sizing with my RCBS neck sizing die and it only led to extraction issues with Hornady brass.
The overall consensus around here seems to be you prep the brass as usual, i.e. (FL re-size, trim, debur) until the 3rd or 4th load. Then some of you neck turn or anneal? Sound correct? Ok...
I have read some conflicting results on case neck turning and accuracy improvement, but I wont go there right now. Heck, I am just trying to get my fired brass out of the chamber at this point. I have also read about neck REAMING. From what I understand, case neck turning deals with the outside diameter of the case mouth, and reaming focuses on the inner walls of the case mouth. So essentially, each deals with the case mouth diameter. Turning is the outside and reaming is the inside. Correct so far?
So, the only time we would neck turn or ream the walls of the case mouth would be when the case mouth's wall thickness gets out of spec? My Lyman manual lists .372" for the neck wall. I assume that is the outside diameter since .338 is suppose to fit inside. The manual also says that we shouldnt neck turn fired cases in order to prolong the life of the brass. ha-ha. Anyway.
The reason I ask is because when I was having brass issues with Hornady, the outside diameter was in spec, however the inside thickness was too tight. Like Green said, I couldnt drop a bullet into the case mouth of a fired case. No good people.
So therefore, I wouldve had to purchase a case reamer??? I just want to be sure I know what to look for when reloading this Lapua brass. I will continue to purchase Lapua brass if this doesnt become such an issue like it did with Hornady, but I am just now understanding what I THINK caused the problem to begin with.
I received my Hornady Lock-n-Load OAL gauge for the 338 Lapua. I followed the instructions and performed the test on my Savage 111 LRH with a 300gr Sierra MK. The length of the bullet was 1.717". SMK tend to vary quite a bit on their OAL. I dont have a o-give measurement tool, so I had to SWAG (Sophisticated Wild Ass Guess). The lock-n-load measurements I recorded using my caliper were: 3.731, 3.728, 3.730, 3.729. Its really touchy on how much pressure your finger puts on the bullet when seating it. So if I were to choose 3.730" as the meaurement, I would subtract .020 for determining the OAL of my load in that rifle?