I have been thinking about getting a new powder scale for some time now. I curently have a blance beam scale with a magnetic dampener. As of late its acuracy has come into question. I have not decided on a new scale yet, or if I want to stay with the blacne beam or try an electirc scale.
I had an electirc scale 6-8 years ago and it would not keep its zero. I followed all the instructions on making sure it is out of the air flow, it had warmed up to room temp by letting it set out for 20-30 min before using it... anyway I am looking at getting a new powder scal and would like some advise on which one to get.
I reload for hand guns and rifles (up to 100 grs of powder). Please feel free to post any informatoin you would like to pass onto me about powder scales.
"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night
only because rough men stand ready
to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell --
Rest easy, sleep well my brothers.
Know the line has held, your job is done.
Rest easy, sleep well.
Others have taken up where you fell, the line has held.
Peace, peace, and farewell... --Unknown--
Never had a problem with an RCBS 10-10 scale. I heard on another post that RCBS scales are made by the same company that makes high end scales. My scale constantly gets checked with lab grade calibration weights and as long as you put the 1/10ths line in the exact right place there is never an issue.
I have used a lyman 1200 (2) for several years now, have 2 of them and have very good luck. like all scales, they have their "quirks" but very easy to work with and VERY accurate. I trimmed the drop tube on the lathe to let the extruded powders hit more in the center of the pan, and USE the little screw in button for the drop tube that comes with them now. I set my scale to drop .1 grain less than desired load then "bump" to actual weight desired. only time it "floats" is if (when!) a "kernel" of powder gets down beside scale plate, hence the little brush that comes with unit.
All reloading beam scales are very fine instruments; very sensitive and accurate. Without a clue as to how much 'error' you may be seeing or what scale you're using we really don't have a lot to go on to make a serious suggestion.
Thing is, beam scales just don't change all by themselves, that's their strong point, but they do get dirty and damaged and misadjusted. Do this:
Gently clean the beam and its notches, the pan, pan hanger, bearings and pivot knives with a tooth brush and something like Windex.
Use a magnifying glass to look at the pivot knives. You don't want to see burrs or nicks on the sharp edges. If you do see burrs they will have to be ground away.
The pivot bar should be unbent - perfectly straight across and at 90 degrees to all sides of the beam.
Place the empty pan on the hanger and adjust the left side screw foot so it's perfectly zeroed to the beam pointer. Lightly touch the pan and see if it returns to zero; repeat that several times to insure it doesnt stop on one side or the other of zero. If it does, you have damaged the pivot or bearings OR you don't have the beam properly centered between the bearings so end friction is making the beam bind.
Electronic scales have problems around fluorescent lights for some reason, and balance beam scales should never be left with the beam on the scale. The vibrations in the ground, manmade and natural wear them out. It used to be included info in the instructions, don't know if it still is. Just some passing info.