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Reloading Techniques For Reloading


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reloading question

 
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  #8  
Old 11-09-2005, 12:46 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 230
Re: reloading question

"I just loaded 50 of theses suckers last night too"

I recently pulled a pile of bullets that I had loaded up and bought three different pullers so if you don't have one I can offer a little insight on your choice.

I use some pretty substantial neck tension and the whack type puller developed some cracks in the head of it, makes alot of noise and to me was cumbersome. The thing is fully warranteed but shipping and handling is within a buck of a new one if I wished to go there. Throwed it in the junk drawer.

The Forester one mounted in the press has the neck/bullet go up into a collet that I couldn't see real well and destroyed two for two BR quality prepped cases. Now in same junk drawer.

RCBS is the cats butt, but if you want to reuse bullets.... Take some 220 grit paper and thread it through the slots of the puller and sand/deburr the internal edges of the caliber specific head. Then roll up some more to where the roll fits snug up into the puller head and chuck the roll into a drill. Buff the bore. I followed this with a undersized brush a couple of patches and JB chucked up to polish the inside of the puller. Spray all of the grit out and use. If you have prepped your case necks, the bullets will still look as they did out of the box. If they are gouged to hell where they went down in the case, well thats another issue.

Yanking bullets ain't all that bad for me now. Good luck.
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  #9  
Old 11-09-2005, 07:08 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Fredericksburg VA
Posts: 4,058
Re: reloading question

Forget the shim thing.

Instead buy a set of the redding competition shellholders. Come with set of five at .002 intervals. Will solve the shoulder bump issue without touching your die setting once set. www.sinclairintl.com part number # RD11606 for mannums and $36.45

normally setting the die to touch the shellholder will make excessive bump back.

BH
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  #10  
Old 11-09-2005, 12:30 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 249
Re: reloading question

Bounty hunter.....I have both....the shims and the redding shellholders. I'll take the shims anyday--more versatile---much cheaper....one set for about $12 covers any caliber--not just magnums.
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  #11  
Old 11-09-2005, 06:39 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Fredericksburg VA
Posts: 4,058
Re: reloading question

You are right the shims are cheaper, but I hate having to hunt the micro down to measure all the time. The redding comp shellholders are simpler and that works best for me.

If you like the shims and measuring all the time, great, both will work.

BH
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  #12  
Old 11-10-2005, 12:15 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Washington State
Posts: 2,430
Re: reloading question

If you do not adjust your die down to the shellholder (using the redding comp shellholders or shims is the best way to get a custom fit that I know of, but that's just me--otherwise you are working that brass way more than necessary and my be losing accuracy in the process) you will likely be incurring a number of inconsistencies that adjusting the die down to the shellholder keeps from happening. The vertical axis of the die is is "zeroed" to the shellholder by screwing down the die ring tightly when in contact with the shellholder. This is a necessary step when using 7/8-14 presses and dies. If you have a concentricity guage, try a few rounds either way and then check case and bullet concentricity. You are much more likely to have more runout when the die was not adjusted to the shellholder. You may be aware of this already, but I didn't see anyone else mention it. Sorry if I just missed it. Good luck.
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  #13  
Old 11-10-2005, 12:13 PM
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Location: Washington State
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Re: reloading question

Also...be impeccable about keeping the top surface or the ram clean and free of debris--same goes for dies, die ring surface and it's mating surface on the press body. In addition, if you don't do this already, consider removing the snap ring that holds your shellholder in place. (I'd really reccomend the Redding comp shellholders as a simple and quick way to get a custom fit and still be able to zero the die to the shellholder.) Some folks then use an 0-ring to hold it in place but I make sure the bottom surface of the shellholder in contact with the ram and the top of the ram have a bit of good, lightweight lubrication and do not use the snap ring or an o-ring to hold the shellholder in place. It just floats and finds it's own "zero" in the die. My understanding is that this can help align the case more evenly side to side with the die and result in less runout. I got these ideas from Sinclair's book on precision reloading. Between these steps and neck turning, I usually average just under .001 case and bullet runout on my RCBS Rockchucker with Redding dies. Benchrest numbers on a 7/8-14 press... I check concentricity using Sinclair's guage. Good luck.
__________________
In the beginning God created the heavens and the earth. Genesis 1:1

"And can the liberties of a nation be thought secure when we have removed their only firm basis, a conviction in the minds of the people that these liberties are the gift of God?" Thomas Jefferson - Notes on the State of Virginia

www.wildsidesystems.com - Shelter for Your WildSide - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYwgo...&feature=g-upl
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  #14  
Old 11-11-2005, 12:25 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 521
Re: reloading question

Only problem with shims is that a new reloader can get messed up if changing dies, etc. Competition shell holders are easier to begin with and repeat when changing out dies, etc. Just a thought. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]
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