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Redding micrometer seater

 
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  #8  
Old 02-04-2012, 10:00 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: southwest Texas
Posts: 13
Re: Redding micrometer seater

Well the reason I wanted to try the micrometer seater was that I recently watched the Defensive Edge reloading video and that is what Shawn used to seat his bullets. I have been having trouble reloading Berger VLD and keeping the OAL measured at the ogive the same. And his solution looked like a good idea.
Thanks again
Troy
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  #9  
Old 02-05-2012, 02:05 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: West Central, UT
Posts: 64
Something to consider.

Bought a set for my 338LM. They had a card inside that said NOT to use the competion seating die to seat bullets with compressed charges of powder as damage would result that would not be covered under warranty. Hadn't seen this before with any of the the other calibers I load for. Called them up to inquire if it was only for the 338 or any caliber comp. seater and they said all.
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  #10  
Old 02-05-2012, 07:28 PM
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Re: Redding micrometer seater

BROWNT there can be reasons for your dilemma regardless of the die.
-For one, whatever OAL comparator you're using probably doesn't contact the bullet nose at the same datum as the seater plug. With this, slight variances in ogive radius can change your comparison. Micrometer adjustments are useful to counter.
-Another is the press itself(it's alignment, flex & tolerances) and your setting of it w/resp to the shellholder.
I've never used a Forster. I've used Redding Competitions with a Harrell press. But my preference is Wilson inlines with micrometer tops. This, because it eliminates press errors.
-Oversizing necks can increase seating force to a point where you get wedging with the seater plug. A definite source of trouble for consistency. Oversizing is anything beyond 3thou under cal(after springback).

I don't seat to within a tolerance. I seat to an EXACT number -every round.
I'm also fussy about loaded round runout off noses.
Wilson seaters and rational sizing take care of the last two factors. I qualify ogive radius on my bullets to eliminate the first factor.
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  #11  
Old 02-05-2012, 10:47 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: southwest Texas
Posts: 13
Re: Redding micrometer seater

Thanks Trikstr for the heads up but the loads I'm playin with now are a 6.5x284 and they are not compressed.

Mikecr you are correct on the position of my comparator measurement point to the seater plug contact point but I did not realize Berger could have ogive variances. The Wilson die sounds like it helps, I don't know anything about them but I will be looking into that because loads to an exact # is what I'm trying to accomplish.
Thanks
Troy
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  #12  
Old 02-06-2012, 12:00 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
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Re: Redding micrometer seater

Quote:
Originally Posted by BROWNT View Post
Thanks Trikstr for the heads up but the loads I'm playin with now are a 6.5x284 and they are not compressed.

Mikecr you are correct on the position of my comparator measurement point to the seater plug contact point but I did not realize Berger could have ogive variances. The Wilson die sounds like it helps, I don't know anything about them but I will be looking into that because loads to an exact # is what I'm trying to accomplish.
Thanks
Troy
Hold On!

we are compairing apples to oranges here.

* with the gauge setup you are setting up your own personal gauge line deminsion that has little if anything todo with some written in a book or posted on the internet. Now you can take this a step further (assuming you have access to a Shadowgraph), and figure out the perfect datum line O.D. Most all of us can't do that, and in the end means little. The best way to do this is to either figure out what Forster or Redding is using on their seater stem, or simply come up with you own set of number that will put you in the general area you are seaking. I do it a slightly different way, in that I often use the actual bore size of a certain barrel. Still other times I just make up a bushing that contacts the bullets where I want it to. I actually have more bushings that I've custom machined than came with the kit itself. (probably forty)

That measurement is your own gauge line to go by, and dosn't interchange with a gun setting right beside it. I keep a log book that seperates each bullet I use and each barrel / bolt combo. If you have the Hornaday/Stoneypoint tool, then you get get very close to the max overall length without getting into a jam condition. Then you setup a max deminsion off that length ( with the bushing you selected). Now I always recommend that a person do this setup several times to be sure he is correct. Then simply throw out the max numbers at each end and then average them out. That'll put you very close to what you are seeking. Then you will say "hey I want .015" bullet jump", and set the die for that number. I recommend you establish a dummy round that just touches the rifeling, and drill out the primer pocket you you don't loose it.

* if you decide to machine your own bushings, always try to keep all faces parallel and round. I prefer to bore mine rather than ream them. Secondly take a Scotchbrite pad and lightly wipe the shoulder that will contact the bullet. I will usually have about .010" radius there when done. I also use the same method for sizing cases, but the datum O.D. is figured as half the distance from the neck O.D. to the shoulder O.D.

gary
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